How to Grow a 5 O’Clock Shadow Beard

Written by Timmy Yanchun | Edited by Dan Hickey

Last Updated: July 9, 2024 Fact Checked

Does a 5 o’clock shadow beard just happen, or can you get this look on purpose? 5 o’clock shadows used to be considered an unfortunate consequence of shaving every morning, but thanks to some celebrities rocking the look, it’s now a stylish and rugged facial hair choice that’s easy to get and maintain on your own. That’s why we’ve put together a handy guide to growing, styling, and maintaining the perfect 5 o’clock shadow beard for the office or for date night. If you’re ready to turn some heads with your stylish stubble, keep scrolling!

This article is based on an interview with our professional barber, Timmy Yanchun, co-founder of Svelte Barbershop + Essentials. Check out the full interview here.

Things You Should Know

A 5 o’clock shadow is a short, stubble beard that looks stylish, professional, and attractive when the lines are maintained and the hair is uniform length.
It takes about 2 days to grow enough stubble for a 5 o’clock shadow. People who already have a beard can trim down to a shadow whenever they like.
Trim your beard with an electric trimmer. Start with a #2 guard, then go shorter if desired. Fade out the edges with a #1 or #0 for a natural look.

Section 1 of 3:

What is a 5 o’clock shadow?

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1
A 5 o’clock shadow is the facial hair that grows in shortly after a shave. The name comes from the “shadow” that appears on some faces at the end of the work day after shaving in the morning. Stylistically, a 5 o’clock shadow is stubbly and not too clean looking—it’s meant to look natural and effortless (unlike a stubble beard which is fuller and has a more defined shape).^{[1]
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- If you already have a beard, you can trim it down to a 5 o’clock shadow whenever you like.
- If you’re clean shaven, wait about 2 days for enough stubble to grow in (it might take more or less time depending on your genetics).
2
5 o’clock shadows look professional and attractive if they’re maintained. Since celebrities have popularized the look, stubble beards or 5 o’clock shadows are no longer considered “unprofessional” automatically. Keep the cheek and neck lines well-defined and trim frequently so the hairs are all a uniform length to keep things looking tidy and groomed.^{[2]
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- A well-groomed 5 o’clock shadow can contour your face and give you a rugged look that’s great for date night or everyday activities, too.
- Go into job interviews clean shaven (it will always be considered a more professional look) and then try out facial hair once you’ve secured the job.
- Clear and healthy skin, tidy hair, and a sharp outfit make a 5 o’clock shadow look more dashing, stylish, and presentable.

Section 2 of 3:

Growing and Trimming a 5 O’clock Shadow

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1
Wait 24 to 72 hours to grow your stubble if you’re clean shaven. Stop shaving for a few days to let your hair grow in naturally (remember, this look is meant to appear unintentional). Shape your beard when you’ve got some substantial growth to work with.^{[3]
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- When in doubt, wait longer than you think you need to. You can always trim the hair shorter if it’s too long for your liking.
2
Wash your face with an exfoliating scrub and hot water. Use a gentle store bought exfoliating cleanser or make your own by adding some brown sugar to olive oil or coconut oil. The hot water will open up your pores and soften your facial hair, and the exfoliant will remove dead skin cells for a smooth trim.
- Exfoliate before any facial hair maintenance, whether you’re trimming a 5 o’clock shadow or preparing to shave totally clean, to reduce skin irritation.
3
Trim your entire beard with an electric trimmer and a #2 guard. Shave upward (against the direction of growth) to get an even and symmetrical trim all over. Trim with a #2 guard if your stubble is on the longer side, then size down to a #1 (or even a #0) if you want it shorter.^{[4]
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- Keep a light wrist and don’t push too hard—let the electric trimmer do the work for you.
- Purse your lips together to flatten out your mustache area for easier trimming. Aim to keep your mustache hair the same length as your beard hair.^{[5]
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If you want your beard to look more kempt and less rugged, stick to a #2 or #1 guard on your chin, mustache, and cheeks. Trim your sideburns, jawline, and cheek lines with a #0 or a #00 guard to fade out and blend the edges.^{[6]
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Shape your cheek lines for a sharper, intentional look. The focus of a 5 o’clock shadow is on the cheeks and chin, so clean up anything that’s above your cheek line for a clean style.^{[7]
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- If you have a rounder face, try a straight cheek line at a steep angle to lengthen your face.
- If your face is long or angular, try a curved cheek line to soften the contours of your face.
6
Shave your neckline to keep a clean, groomed appearance. Use an electric or bladed razor to shape the neckline parallel to your jawline. Start in your Adam’s apple area and follow your jawline outward, moving closer to the jawline as you approach the ears. Aim to keep the neckline midway between your jawline and the first wrinkle in your throat.
- Be extra cautious and use a light touch when you’re using an electric trimmer on your neck.
- Regardless of your stubble length or style, a neck beard will detract from the rugged look of your 5 o’clock shadow.
- Try not to go all the way up to the jawline. This looks good on some people, but the majority of guys look better with a slightly lower neckline.
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Rinse away loose hairs and apply aftershave to soothe your skin. Splash your face with warm water to remove tiny hairs, then rinse with cold water to tighten up your pores. Finish with a moisturizing aftershave spray or gel to avoid razor burn and keep your skin moisturized.^{[9]
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- Since the hair is so short, you most likely don’t need beard oil or other facial hair products to keep your beard clean and healthy.

Section 3 of 3:

Maintenance Tips

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Check and touch up your beard length and lines every 3 to 4 days. Look at your 5 o’clock shadow in the mirror—if it starts to look too messy or long, just trim it and shape it again the same way you did initially. If your hair grows fast, you might have to trim it every other day. If you’re a slower grower, every 3 to 4 days is probably fine.
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Keep the skin underneath healthy and moisturized. Healthy skin equals healthy stubble! Exfoliate your face several times a week and use a facial moisturizer rather than beard oil or conditioner. Use an SPF product all over your face to avoid wrinkles and fine lines, too.
- Clean, healthy skin elevates the look of your 5 o’clock shadow and makes it look more stylish and professional.
3
Maintain the shadow to fill in patchiness. Don’t worry if your beard looks a little patchy when you first grow it. Continue trimming it down to a shadow every few days with an electric trimmer and allow it to grow out a little bit before you do it again. As time goes by, the patches will fill in.
- Patchiness is largely genetic and there’s no one-size-fits-all way to fill in a beard. Be patient and keep your skin healthy to encourage thicker growth.

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Tips

Intentional 5 o’clock shadows or stubble beards are sometimes called “designer stubble.”^{[10]
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The length, style, and edges of your 5 o’clock shadow are entirely up to you. If you’re unsure what you want it to look like, look at some celebrity or style photos for inspiration.^{[11]
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