How to Apply Pancake Makeup

Co-authored by Frankie Sanderson

Last Updated: September 6, 2023 References

Pancake makeup is a type of thick, heavy, oil- and wax-based foundation makeup that provides a great deal of coverage. It actually provides a lot more coverage than regular cream-based makeups, so it’s often only used for theatrical performances by people who are going to appear on stage or screen, such as models and actors. The purpose of pancake makeup is to provide a flawless and matte finish that can be seen from far away, but because it also creates a water-resistant finish, it can also be used by people with very oily skin, and it won’t be affected by sweat. This type of makeup can be difficult to use at first, but the secret to perfect coverage is using the right amount of water and proper blending.

Part 1

Part 1 of 2:

Learning the Proper Technique

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1
Wet your sponge. Pancake makeup needs to be activated with water, and should be applied with a dense sponge.^{[1]
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Research source} The great thing about pancake makeup is that you can control the amount of coverage you get by adding more or less water (less water means less diluted makeup and heavier coverage).
- For regular coverage, soak your sponge with water and then squeeze out the excess so the sponge is damp.
- For lighter coverage, soak the sponge and then give it a gentle squeeze so it’s not dripping wet.
- While using more water allows you to thin out the coverage, using too water much can lead to an uneven finish and streaks.
- Because pancake makeup can provide such heavy coverage, you can actually use a shade that’s two or three shades lighter than your skin tone.^{[2]
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Use gentle pressure as your rub to cover one side of the sponge with makeup. For lighter coverage, don’t use any added pressure: the weight from the water will press the sponge into the makeup enough to pick up the right amount.

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3
Apply the makeup to your face. With the amount of pancake you have on the sponge, begin applying the makeup to your face. Cover as much of your face as possible before going back for more. When you run out, rub the sponge into the makeup again and continue covering your face.
- Apply the pancake to your face, cheeks, nose, forehead, and even eyelids. If you're using thick coverage in a shade that’s noticeably different from your natural skin tone, also cover your entire throat and neck as far back as your ears.^{[3]
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- For lighter coverage, use light and quick strokes to apply a thin layer of pancake.
- When you're applying your foundation, be careful not to apply too much or too little product. Also, it's best to use high-quality products, since you'll get a better color payoff.^{[4]
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  Franklin Sanderson. Makeup artist. Personal interview. 14 May 2020.}
4
Blend the makeup. When you have covered your face, squeeze the excess water from the sponge and turn it to the clean side to begin blending. Use gentle pressure to blend the makeup into your skin. Don’t forget the areas between your eyes and the corners of your nose, mouth, and eyes.
- When blending, focus on making the coverage even and removing streaks.
Once you’ve finished blending, give the makeup a few moments to dry. If you're going for lighter coverage, blot your face with a cloth or tissue while it’s still moist to absorb excess makeup and water.^{[5]
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Powder your face. Use a brush, puff, or clean sponge to apply a thin layer of setting, finishing, or foundation powder over top of the pancake. Remove excess powder and smooth out the finish by buffing the face with a sponge or puff.^{[6]
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- Make sure the pancake is completely dry before applying powder.

Part 2

Part 2 of 2:

Applying Contoured Pancake Makeup

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1
Understand contouring. Contouring is a way of applying darker and lighter makeup to different areas of your face in order to highlight and de-emphasize certain features. For instance, you can use:
- Darker makeup under your cheekbones to make your face look longer and thinner.
- Lighter makeup on top of your cheekbones to make them stand out.
- Darker makeup on your jawbone to make your face look narrower
- Both types of makeup to make your nose look narrower.
- Make your eyes stand out more.
2
Pick your makeup shades. The process of applying contoured pancake makeup is the same as with regular foundation, only you use multiple colors to highlight and shade different features. You will need your regular pancake makeup (that matches your skin tone), a pancake for highlighting, and a pancake for darker contours.
- When you're matching your foundation, make sure the undertones match your skin tone. For instance, if you have a pink undertone and you use a neutral-cool foundation, it's going to oxidize and look yellow on your skin.^{[7]
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- For the contour, choose a shade that’s a couple shades darker than your regular pancake.
- For the highlighter, opt for a pancake that’s a couple shades lighter than your regular pancake. If you want the pancake to also cover red or dark spots, choose a greenish shade.^{[8]
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Wash and moisturize your face. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser to remove oil, sweat, and dirt. Pat your face dry and apply an oil-free moisturizer or toner. Let the moisturizer absorb for about five minutes.
- Pancake makeup won’t adhere to your skin properly if there's water, oil, dirt, or sweat on your face, which is why you have to start with clean and oil-free skin.
4
Contour to make your cheekbones stand out. If you want to make your face look narrower and your cheekbones more prominent, you can contour your cheekbones to do this. Remember that when you're contouring with pancake makeup, you will have to work a little faster than you would with regular makeup, because you will have to blend everything once you’ve applied all the makeup. Using a thin makeup sponge that’s damp with water, apply:^{[9]
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- A thin line of highlighter pancake above the cheekbone, from the middle of your cheek to the spot where your eyebrow ends.
- A finger-width line of darker pancake below the cheekbone, from the ear toward the corner of the mouth. Don’t extend the line beyond where your pupil is.
- Be sure to use a separate sponge for each color.
5
Give yourself a chiselled jawline. This can give you more definition around your jaw, and help hide extra fat under your chin. With the darker pancake and the sponge, apply pancake to your jawline and the area just under it. On both sides of your face:^{[10]
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- Start at your ear and follow the jawline all the way to your chin. To make your chin look narrower, taper the makeup as you approach the chin so that you don’t follow the curve of your chin.
- To hide extra fat underneath the chin, follow the jaw under your chin with the pancake as well.
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Make your nose look narrower. Apply a line of highlighter pancake down the center of your nose, from between your eyebrows right down to the tip.
- With the darker pancake, draw a line down either side of the center of your nose, from the inner end of each eyebrow all the way down to the tip of your nose. At the tip of your nose, taper the makeup slightly inward.^{[11]
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With the darker pancake, apply a thin line of makeup across your forehead, just below your hair line. Make the line a little thicker in the area above the natural curve of your eyebrows.^{[12]
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Make other features pop. You can make other features stand out by applying a small amount of highlighter. This includes dabbing a circle of highlighter to the center of your chin, drawing a small V shape in between your eyebrows, and putting a dab of highlighter at the Cupid’s bow (the top center of your upper lip).^{[13]
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- To make your eyes pop, apply a semicircle of highlighter under each eye.
Dampen a regular (not thin) makeup sponge and use this to apply your regular pancake to the remaining areas of your face where you didn’t put highlighter or contour. When you're finished, turn the sponge over and immediately begin blending the makeup so there are no harsh lines, uneven spots, or abrupt changes in color.^{[14]
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Once you’ve blended the three colors together, allow the pancake to dry and then apply a finishing, setting, or foundation powder over top. Use the brush or sponge to blend the powder in as well.^{[15]
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Question

How do you apply setting powder?

Frankie Sanderson
Makeup Artist & Stylist
Franklin (Frankie) Sanderson is a Makeup Artist and Stylist and the Founder of TheStudeo, a styling business based in Washington DC that specializes in hairstyling, makeup, and personal image consulting services. He specializes in hair extensions, chemical services such as highlighting, Balayage, Japanese straightening, keratin treatments, and designer cuts. He has a BFA in Fashion Design from Virginia Commonwealth University and has trained at the L'Oreal Soho Academy, TIGI, Vidal Sassoon, Redken, and Wella. His clients include Nicole Kidman, Lindsay Lohan, Rachel McAdams, Tina Fey, Jane Lynch, and Alicia Keys.

Frankie Sanderson

Makeup Artist & Stylist

Expert Answer

When you're applying loose powder, try shaking it into a tissue first, then shake the powder out. That way, you're not applying a large amount at once, and it will be less likely to look cakey.

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Question

What are some common mistakes to avoid when I'm contouring my face?

Frankie Sanderson
Makeup Artist & Stylist
Franklin (Frankie) Sanderson is a Makeup Artist and Stylist and the Founder of TheStudeo, a styling business based in Washington DC that specializes in hairstyling, makeup, and personal image consulting services. He specializes in hair extensions, chemical services such as highlighting, Balayage, Japanese straightening, keratin treatments, and designer cuts. He has a BFA in Fashion Design from Virginia Commonwealth University and has trained at the L'Oreal Soho Academy, TIGI, Vidal Sassoon, Redken, and Wella. His clients include Nicole Kidman, Lindsay Lohan, Rachel McAdams, Tina Fey, Jane Lynch, and Alicia Keys.

Frankie Sanderson

Makeup Artist & Stylist

Expert Answer

Avoid using too much or too little product, and choose a quality product that will give you the right color payoff. Also, be sure to use products that match your skin type.

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Question

Which company's pancake makeup stays on the longest?

MAYA MONDOCK

Community Answer

I would suggest MAC. They are known for their pancake makeup and it is one of their oldest products. Many professional MUAs use this product for full coverage.

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