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The Buffalo nickel series was designed by James Earle Fraser and was in circulation for 25 years, from 1913 to 1938. Buffalo nickels are extremely popular among collectors. Buffalo nickels in mint condition are generally worth more than those in poor condition, but the oldest nickels and any that were misprinted are some of the most valuable. Keep reading to learn all about this popular rare coin and find out what yours is worth today.
Things You Should Know
- To find the value of your Buffalo nickel, find the date on the man’s shoulder and the mintmark underneath the words “FIVE CENTS.”
- If your coin is in mint condition, it may be worth more than if most of the detail on the coin has been worn away. Any minting mistakes can also increase its value.
- Once you see the date, mintmark, condition, and any minting mistakes, refer to this value chart to see how much your coin is worth.
Steps
Finding the Value of a Buffalo Nickel
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Look at the date on the Native American man’s shoulder. One side of a Buffalo nickel has the profile of a Native American man with the word “LIBERTY” along the upper edge of the coin and the date the coin was minted below the man’s neck on his shoulder. The date can influence the value of your coin depending on how many Buffalo nickels were made that year.[1]
- 3 different Native American chiefs who performed in Wild West shows in New York City modeled for the design of this coin in the early 1900s—Chief Iron Tail, Chief Big Tree, and Chief Two Moons.
- The letter “F” is also etched underneath where the date should be located. This “F” refers to the last name of the nickel’s designer, James Earle Fraser.[2]
- All Buffalo nickels are made out of 75% copper and 25% nickel. Each one is 21.2 mm in diameter and weighs 5.00 g.[3]
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Examine the mintmark underneath the “FIVE CENTS” demarcation. Mintmarks are letters that identify where the coin was made.[4] Collectors tend to look for all 3 mint productions for each year—this means that some coins are more valuable if there were less coins produced with a certain year and mintmark.[5] Look under the words “FIVE CENTS” to read your coin’s mint mark.
- “S” mintmark: the San Francisco mint
- “D” mintmark: the Denver mint
- No mintmark: the Philadelphia mint
- Some people might add a mintmark to a rare coin to increase its value, so make sure a reputable coin dealer authenticates it before you purchase it.
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Examine the details of the coin to figure out its condition grade. Finding the condition of your coin can help you evaluate how much your coin is worth. A mint state means that the coin is in top condition, while a Fair state means that most of the details have worn away, but the date and the outlines of the man and the buffalo are still visible. Here’s how to tell the condition of your coin:[6]
- Mint (MS-AU): There’s virtually no wear to the surface of the coin. The highest points of the coin (the area under the man’s eye and the upper shoulder of the buffalo where the fur meets the back) are intact with only a trace of friction.
- Extremely Fine (EF): All digits in the date are clear and fully raised. You can clearly see the strands of man’s hair and the outline of his feathers. The majority of the buffalo’s horn is visible, and a distinct line separates the buffalo’s back with the line of fur along their upper front leg.
- Fine (F-VF): All digits are visible and each number is complete and separate from the others. The man’s feather begins to merge with his head. The letters in “LIBERTY” are faint and almost touch the rim of the coin. The upper half of the buffalo’s horn is missing but the base is visible.
- Fair to Good (FR-VG): The date is readable but very faint. “LIBERTY” is readable but fully connected to the rim of the coin. The buffalo is missing the majority of his horn and all fur detail is one flat area. The coin has a visible outline of the Native American man and the buffalo.
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Look at the mound of earth under the date if your coin is from 1913. Buffalo nickels minted in 1913 fall into 2 types. Type 1 has “FIVE CENTS” written on top of the mound that the buffalo stands on top of, while Type 2 has the words in a space below the mound.[7] In general, 1913 Type 2 Buffalo nickels minted in Denver or San Francisco tend to be more valuable.
- The Buffalo nickel originally had “FIVE CENTS” on top of the mound, but when the U.S. Mint noticed that the words wore away after because they were raised, they changed the design.
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Look for minting mistakes that may make your coin stand out. Most error coins are recycled before they ever leave the mint, so those that make it into circulation are often collectible and may be incredibly valuable depending on the date it was produced.[8] Here are some of the most common minting errors that could increase the value of your Buffalo nickel:
- 3 or 3 ½ Legs: The buffalo is missing its right front leg.
- Doubled Die Reverse: The buffalo side of the coin has been struck by the production die twice. The easiest way to identify this is by seeing if the letters in “FIVE CENTS” are doubled.
- 8 Over 7: The “8” in the date “1918” has been clearly stamped over the number “7.”
- 4 Over 3: The “4” in the date “1914” has been stamped over the number “3.” Look for a curve just to the right of the top of the 4 and a doubling in the other numbers.
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Refer to a Buffalo nickel value chart to estimate your coin’s value. Knowing the year of the coin, the mintmark, the coin’s condition, and if there are any minting errors can help you estimate how much your coin may be worth. To find the value of your Buffalo nickel, refer to this updated value chart.
- The numbers on the chart refer to the year, while the letter refers to the mintmark (S for San Francisco, D for Denver, and P or no date for Philadelphia).
- “Obverse” refers to the side of the coin with the Native American, while “reverse” refers to the side with the buffalo.[9]
Expert Q&A
Video
Tips
References
- ↑ https://blog.money.org/coin-collecting/5-factors-influence-coin-values
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/coin-and-medal-programs/american-buffalo
- ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/resources/guides/Buffalo_Nickel-web.pdf
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/collecting-basics/mint-marks
- ↑ https://blog.money.org/coin-collecting/mintmarks-on-united-states-coins
- ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/resources/guides/Buffalo_Nickel-web.pdf
- ↑ https://www.pcgs.com/resources/guides/Buffalo_Nickel-web.pdf
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/collecting-basics/get-started-collecting-coins
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/collecting-basics/glossary
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/news/inside-the-mint/superior-manufacturing-reduces-errors
- ↑ https://rarest.org/general/buffalo-nickels
- ↑ https://coinweek.com/no-date-buffalo-nickels-how-to-find-their-value/
- ↑ https://coinweek.com/no-date-buffalo-nickels-how-to-find-their-value/
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/coins/coin-medal-programs/commemorative-coins/american-buffalo
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/learn/coin-and-medal-programs/american-buffalo
- ↑ https://www.ngccoin.com/coin-explorer/united-states/commemoratives/modern-commemoratives-1982-date/519773/2001-p-buffalo-s1-pf/?des=pf-ca
- ↑ https://www.usacoinbook.com/coins/5200/bullion-coins/gold-american-buffalo/2006-W/
- ↑ https://www.usmint.gov/coins/coin-medal-programs/westward-journey-nickel-series/american-bison
- ↑ https://www.usacoinbook.com/coins/1177/nickels/jefferson/2005-P/american-bison/