How to Identify a Fake Watch

Co-authored by Bill Green and Janice Tieperman

Last Updated: November 22, 2024 References

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Many counterfeit sellers try to make replicas of big-name watches with the hopes of making quick money, which can be a big roadblock if you’re looking to buy a new timepiece. Thankfully, a lot of big-name luxury companies take a lot of precautions while manufacturing their watches, like using high-quality materials and engraving each timepiece with a serial code. With careful consideration and research, you can confidently purchase a nice watch without the fear of being ripped off.

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Spotting a Fake Watch

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1
Look for obvious mistakes or defects on the watch. Note that quality designer watches are made using very strict quality standards, which makes peeling paint, scratches, or misspelled words very unlikely. Additionally, check to make sure that the clasp works, and that the watch itself can keep time well.^{[1]
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- For example, some fake Michael Kors watches leave out the “S”.
- Many low-quality Rolex fakes have badly centered crown stamps.^{[2]
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Check the watch for crisp, high-quality lettering. Note that genuine designer watches are crafted by master watchmakers who use precise engraving instruments to create clear, legible lettering on the watch. If any of the lettering is muddled or hard to read, you can assume that the watch is probably a fake.^{[3]
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- This rule applies for all of the lettering, including any serial numbers.
- For example, if the edges around the “R” in “Rolex” look curvy and uneven, you’re likely handling a fake watch.
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Hold the watch to make sure it's heavy. Keep in mind that genuine designer watches are crafted with precious metals and have a lot of small moving parts. Because of this, the watch will feel slightly heavier than it looks. However, if the watch is fake, it will be surprisingly light.^{[4]
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- If possible, compare the weight between any watch you consider buying and a verified genuine model. They should be the same weight.
- For instance, if your designer watch feels feather-light, there’s a good chance that it’s counterfeit.

Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Identifying a Genuine Designer Watch

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Familiarize yourself with different brand designs. Comb through online auction result databases to learn information about the watch you want to purchase. On these databases, look for photos of designer watches as well as the prices they’re sold for.^{[5]
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- For example, with the exception of a rare model made in the 1930s, Rolex watches don't have glass backs. Instead, they have a metal backing.
- Tag Heuer always includes a “Swiss Made” caption along the bottom of the watch face.^{[7]
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- Rolex watches have a “Cyclops,” or small glass square on the face that makes the date look larger.^{[8]
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Look for an official serial number on the watch. Note that designer watches have an alphanumeric number printed somewhere on the watch, which matches with a number provided on the case and/or warranty. Make sure that any numbers or other labels are laser-etched clearly, and not printed sloppily.^{[9]
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- For example, an Omega watch has a serial number along the bottom face. These numbers will be laser-etched, and should match with the serial number on your warranty.
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Be suspicious of watches with simple band designs. Note that designer watches have a more complex design overall, and likely won’t have a simple band. Look for a complex, consistent design along the links or bracelet of your watch, which generally indicates that it’s luxury and not counterfeit.^{[10]
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- For instance, a Tag Heuer watch uses 2 sets of links in the band, while a counterfeit watch might only use 1 link.
- Omega and Rolex watches usually have bands with at least 3 links or columns.

Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Buying Genuine Watches

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Purchase a designer watch that’s new and not resold. The best way to avoid fake watches is to buy exclusively from authorized dealers. While it’s more expensive than buying secondhand, you’re much more likely to make a legitimate purchase. When you buy the watch new, it will come with all of the paperwork and serial numbers verifying its authenticity.
- To find an authorized dealer of your favorite watch, do an online search or talk to the manufacturer.
2
Double-check the serial number with the manufacturer. If you're buying the watch secondhand or at an auction, check the serial number with the manufacturer before purchasing it. Note that designer watch manufacturers keep careful records on the different watches they make. Therefore, if the watch you're buying is genuine, you will be able to find documentation on it.^{[11]
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- To check the serial number, do an online search or call a customer service representative.
3
Visit an appraiser to check for counterfeits. If you're worried that the deal you're getting is too good to be true, take the watch to a professional appraiser before buying it. If the seller is being honest with you, they will have no problem letting you get the watch appraised. To find an appraiser in your area, do an online search or talk to a fine watch distributor.^{[12]
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- Ask the appraiser to determine whether or not the designer watch is real. If they say it's real, have the appraiser walk you through their reasons for believing so.
- Additionally, the appraiser may be able to tell you whether or not you're getting a fair price.

Expert Q&A

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Question

How can I spot a fake Cartier watch?

Bill Green
Jewelry & Watch Expert
Bill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople.

Bill Green

Jewelry & Watch Expert

Expert Answer

To identify a counterfeit Cartier watch, check the dial using a loop. Most authentic Cartier watches feature the word "Cartier" written very small somewhere on the numeral system within one of the lines of numbers. If this detail is missing or appears inconsistent, it could be a sign of a fake Cartier watch.

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Question

Are there any other ways to identify a fake Rolex?

Bill Green
Jewelry & Watch Expert
Bill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople.

Bill Green

Jewelry & Watch Expert

Expert Answer

To spot a counterfeit Rolex, inspect the links to ensure they screw together; if there's a slider instead, it's likely fake. Examine the dial for crispness, cleanliness, and the quality of markers and materials used; flaking suggests a fake. Check the attachment to the watch for any discrepancies from the original design. Also, compare the size of the watch to its supposed dimensions, like a 36mm watch that only measures 35mm. Any other significant deviation indicates a potential counterfeit.

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Question

How can I determine if a stainless steel watch is real?

Bill Green
Jewelry & Watch Expert
Bill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople.

Bill Green

Jewelry & Watch Expert

Expert Answer

Differentiating between a real stainless steel watch and a counterfeit one involves assessing its weight, finish, and overall craftsmanship. Genuine stainless steel watches tend to feel heavy and boast flawless polishing and precise detailing. Look for signs of inconsistency or poor quality, and consider the reputation of the seller and the authenticity of the watch's documentation. Purchasing from reputable retailers or authorized dealers significantly reduces the risk of buying a counterfeit product. Always request and verify any accompanying certificates of authenticity or original packaging.

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If the deal is too good to be true, it probably is. Fake watches have flooded the market and are getting harder and harder to spot.

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Warnings

Before spending more than five thousand dollars on a watch, take it to an expert to verify its authenticity. Otherwise, you may spend tens of thousands of dollars on a fake.

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