How to Paint with a Compressed Air Sprayer

Co-authored by Ez's Painting LLC

Last Updated: January 2, 2024 Approved

Using an air compressor to paint can save money and time while bypassing pollution caused by aerosol propellants. Compressed-air sprayers can be key to your next project; luckily, we'll walk you step-by-step through the process below. To learn everything you need to know, read on!

Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Preliminary Steps

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Oil-based enamels are most easily used with a compressed air sprayer, but acrylics and latex paints can also be sprayed. Adding a suitable thinner will allow more viscous paint to flow freely through the siphon tube, metering valve (fluid) assembly, and nozzle.^{[1]
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Prepare the area where you will paint. Place a drop cloth, sheet plastic, scrap lumber or other material on the ground, floor, or any furniture. For "fixed" projects, like the one illustrated here, you will need to protect adjacent surfaces and make sure you have adequate ventilation.^{[2]
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- Protect nearby surfaces from "overspray" with masking or painter's tape and painter's plastic or newspapers; in windy, outdoor conditions, airborne paint particles may drift farther than you expect.
- Set your paint and thinner on a suitable surface so that spills will not damage anything.
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These will keep you clean and protect you from dangerous fumes and particulates.^{[3]
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Grind, brush, or sand off rust and corrosion from metal, remove all oil, dust, or dirt, and make sure it is dry. Wash the surface: for oil-based paints, use mineral spirits; for latex or acrylic paints, use soap and water. Rinse thoroughly.
You can use the sprayer to apply the primer (following the steps below as if it were paint) or apply it with a brush or roller. When you’re done, sand it smooth if needed.

Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Prep the Compressor

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You will use some air for priming and testing your sprayer, so let it build up pressure while you get your paint ready. The compressor should have a regulator to allow you to set the pressure for the sprayer correctly; otherwise, fluctuations will occur as the pressure rises and falls while you are spraying.^{[4]
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The exact amount will vary depending on your sprayer, so look at the manual (or the equipment itself) for details.^{[5]
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Make sure it is tight; you may want to wrap the threads with Teflon tape to ensure an airtight seal. This does not apply if your sprayer and hose are equipped with quick-connect couplings.
(This is the reservoir attached to the bottom of your spray gun.) Use just enough to submerge the siphon tube in it.
This is usually the lower of two screws above the handle (pistol grip) of the sprayer.
Aim the nozzle into a waste bucket and squeeze the trigger. It usually takes a few seconds for the sprayer system to prime with liquid, so at first, only air will come out of the nozzle. After a moment, you should get a flow of paint thinner. If no thinner comes out of the nozzle, you may have to disassemble the sprayer to check for stoppages or loose seals in the siphon tube assembly.
A funnel helps, here, so you can return it to the original container. Mineral spirits and turpentine (two common thinners) are flammable solvents, and should only be stored in their original containers.

Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Paint

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After opening your can of paint, mix it thoroughly, then pour enough of it to do the job into a separate, clean container. If the paint has been stored for any length of time, it is a good idea to strain it through a paint filter to remove any lumps of hardened paint which may have formed. These lumps can stop up the siphon tube or the metering valve, causing the flow of paint to stop.
The exact ratio of paint to thinner will depend on your paint, sprayer, and nozzle type, but the paint should usually be thinned by about 15 to 20% for a good flow. Notice how thin the paint looks when you use an aerosol spray paint; this will give you an idea of what you are looking for.^{[6]
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Whether the spray cup attaches to the bottom of the sprayer with a clamping assembly and hooks or screws on, be sure to attach it securely; you do not want the spray cup to drop off suddenly while in use.
Practice moving the spray gun in a side to side, or up and down sweeping motion, parallel to the surface. If you have never used this type of paint applicator before, practice holding and swinging it for a moment to get a feel for the balance and weight.
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Squeeze the trigger to spray the paint. Keep the sprayer moving whenever the trigger is squeezed to avoid drips and runs caused by over application.
- It’s best to test-paint a piece of scrap wood or cardboard before tackling the main job. This way, you can adjust the nozzle if necessary to get a finer spray pattern.
This way, the "feathered" edges of the spray pattern don’t leave thin spots in your paint job. Watch for drips and runs, moving fast enough to keep the paint from getting thick as you spray.^{[7]
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Do not allow the sprayer to sit with paint in it; if you need a break, remove the cup and spray some thinner through the sprayer before leaving it unused.
For most paints, a good, even "wet" coat is sufficient, but a second coat may give a more durable finish. Sanding between coats is recommended for varnishes, polyurethane finishes, and other glossy paints to improve the bond between the coats.

Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Clean Up

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1
Pour out the unused paint. If you have a significant amount of paint left, you can return it to the original can; remember, however, that the amount you return to the can has already been thinned, meaning the next time you use it, you may need to adjust the amount of thinner used.
- Epoxy paints and paints that use a catalyst (two-part paints) cannot be returned to the original can; they must be used entirely or disposed of properly once mixed.
Wipe off/out any excess paint.^{[8]
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Fill the spray cup about 1/4 of the way with paint thinner, slosh it around, and spray it through the sprayer until it comes out clear. If there is too much paint left in the cup or the spray assembly, you may have to repeat this step a few times.^{[9]
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Do this as soon as the paint job has dried; leaving the tape on the surface for an extended period will allow the adhesive to set, making it difficult to remove.

Community Q&A

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Question

What is wrong if the paint is glossy when I apply it, but when it dries, it becomes flat?

Community Answer

Paint will always look glossy when wet. You have to buy satin or gloss paint for it to dry glossy.

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Can I spray latex paint with my HVLP sprayer and stationary compressor? I use it for spraying poly now. Would I need a different nozzle?

Community Answer

No, it is all good. I do that all the time. In fact, I spray a lot of crazy stuff through my HVLP and stationary compressors and I never change nozzles. If you have any problems, put some mayonnaise in it (not Miracle Whip). The oils will loosen everything up, and the thickness will help get it unclogged. It sounds crazy, but it works for me every time.

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Must you cover everything in a room before spraying? Also, is there a way to eliminate the odor?

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Typically you would use this type of sprayer outdoors or in a well-ventilated area (all windows open). Indoors will build up fumes quickly, use caution.

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Tips

Always clean the paint sprayer thoroughly after use. For dried-on oil-based paints, you may have to use acetone or lacquer thinner.

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Paint either horizontally or vertically, but try not to do both on one project, as there may be a slight texturing of the surface that may have a different appearance when you look from various angles.

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Read the instruction or operator's manual for your sprayer. You should be familiar with the capacity, viscosity, and type of paint your sprayer will apply. The controls on the sprayer used in the photos are fairly typical for this type of sprayer. The upper control valve regulates air volume; the lower one meters the paint flow. The front of the nozzle is held in place with a threaded ring, and the pattern can be changed from vertical to horizontal by turning it.

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Warnings

Wear a respirator for any extended periods of painting. Pay the $30 to get a respirator (a painter’s mask) to prevent lung infections. A respirator will completely filter out all paint vapor and you will not even smell the paint when you are working indoors.

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Never disconnect the air hose while the compressor is charged.

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Paint only in a well-ventilated area.

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Some paint products use highly flammable solvents, particularly "dry-fall" or lacquer-based paints. Avoid sparks and open flames and do not allow fumes to accumulate in confined spaces.

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