Q&A for How to Paint Motorcycle Fairings

If your saddlebags are made of the same material as your fairing, then there should be no problem. Or you can always buy leather saddlebags if you don't want to paint the ones you have.

Depending on the type of paint and technique used. Often pearl or high gloss paints start with a base coat of different colors to enhance the final color. If your color is a primary color, then having a base coat of a matching color is fine. If starting with a fresh project on plastic parts, it can help to get a primer base coat that matches your final color but metals often require proper primer, lots of sanding, then the base coat, more sanding and blocking and eventually getting to the final color.

Anything can be painted but you have to figure in several factors including humidity, exposure to the elements, and temperature. It's best to paint all those plastic parts on the same day if possible. The weather difference between two days can actually change how your paint dries and can affect the end color if painted at different times.

Use a 400 grit sandpaper on a sanding foam block and lightly debuff the original finish, it isn't necessary to push hard. Make sure that you thoroughly clean the entire surface and dry completely. Tape off any areas not to painted. Paint a test area to make sure the new color will cover the old color once dried.

Yes, if the preparation is done properly. You may, however, like to use mostly enamel because it is thinner and will be more reflective.

Yes, if you see there are rough spots or a run in the paint, it needs to be sanded. If it is smooth as you like, then you do not have to sand between every coat.

Do not tape off parts of the fairing you want to paint. Barely spray an inch or so into old paint, then wet sand and buff.

If spots are really small, some bondo can be used. For larger spots, use fiberglass, then bondo over, sand, and then paint.

Yes, once the fiber or fabric is smoothed out, then apply the resin with the plastic trial that is furnished with the kit, (assuming you bought one), then apply a thin layer of bonds. Sand and paint.

Not if you sand the finish first to knock off the slick coat. You can use an adhesion promoter if you do not wish to sand but may not have the end results you are seeking.

If you are painting over orange and wanting gloss orange as the end result, then use gloss orange. If painting over a different color, then first use a primer, either grey or brown. I would probably use the brown to be more of a base for orange.

Once you pick a color, it should tell you on the can of how many square feet one can will cover and you need to roughly know how many square feet you are needing to paint and determine from there. The associate at the store may also be able to help with how much is needed.

It depends on how smooth the finish is or if there is dirt, or maybe even a run in the paint. If your desired look is accomplished, then you can move on to the next coat once that coat is dry.

That depends on what kind of paint you have used. It may be fine for enamel but lacquer it would be too hot and humid.

It will depend on what it has for a finish. Chrome cannot be painted but if it's already painted use a chrome finish paint to get as much reflection as possible. This paint has to be applied very thin and may require more than 1 layer of paint. Probably 2-4 will do.

If you use lacquer paint to start with, then lacquer thinner will be used to dilute the paint in an air spray paint gun to get the desired thickness on each coat. If using a can or cleaning up any paint overspray or spillage, lacquer thinner can be used to remove paint.