Q&A for How to Replace a Fuse on Christmas Tree Lights

Start by checking the outlet that the Christmas lights were plugged into to make sure there's power present. If the outlet isn't the issue, use a multimeter to test the fuse for continuity. If the meter reads open, you can know for sure that the fuse is blown and should be replaced.

Then the product most likely does not have a replaceable fuse. Not all products have this feature. However, do look carefully, because some products use only a single fuse, and the door may be smaller.

Try using a pair of pliers to straighten out one or two bends in a paper clip, then create a short (~1/16th inch) hook, bent to about 90° at the end. Work it into the fuse recess until you can hook the far end of the fuse and pull it downward and outward. This won't be as smooth as it sounds, but persistence will eventually pay off. Try not to break the glass in the fuse. But if you do, it will probably make things easier. Just be sure to get all of the old fuse (including the second metal cap and the small pieces of glass) out before inserting a new fuse. It may take a magnifying glass, but one of the metal caps should have the fuse's rating (Voltage and Amps) stamped into it.

You can find them most places the lights are sold, such as Target and online. Before buying new fuses, check to see if a small bag came with your lights; manufacturers usually supply spare bulbs and fuses.

Such lights tend to be connected sequentially. Probably one of the lights is broken and interrupting the circuit. Try checking every light and replacing broken ones.

It depends on the exact lights you use. I would check the tag on your lights (if there is one).

There is no such thing for this type of fuses; they work either way.

Toss the complete set, as that is a potential fire hazard and not worth the risk. Buy a new set, they're not that expensive.

Buy a LightKeeper, look them up online. They have one for incandescent and one for LED.

That is not a problem. The "120 volts" is a nominal voltage and may vary from 115 to 125, but 120 was adopted by some standards as the "reference". At least you know it is not some other range such as 208 volts or 240 volts.