How to Read a Hair Color Chart

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Co-authored by Steven Waldman and Hannah Madden

Last Updated: September 24, 2023 References

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• Depth
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• Tone
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• Finding a Color
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• Expert Q&A
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Hair color charts are super useful in determining what hair color you have and which one you’re trying to go for, and they’re usually arranged in a grid or numbered pattern. The first number in the color code usually represents the depth, while the second and third numbers usually signify the tone. Although many hair care companies have their own unique hair color charts, you can use the standard hair color chart numbering system to figure out the base and tone of the color you’d like to achieve.

Steps

Method 1

Method 1 of 3:

Depth

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1. 1
   Read the first number as depth. In most hair color charts, the first number is always the depth, or the base color. This is the starting point for any color, and it’s a true neutral, neither warm or cool.

   • If you’re trying to pick out your hair color on a color chart, you’ll start with the depth and then get more specific.
2. 2
   Interpret 1 as the darkest black. The depth colors are labeled 1 - 10, 1 being the darkest. It’s a true black, not just dark brown, and it’s often very hard to lighten more than 2 to 3 levels at a time.

   • This color is often described as “inky.”
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3. 3
   Count 2 - 5 as brown. Numbers 2 - 5 describe the shades of brown, ranging from dark brown at 2 and light brown at 5. Dark brown is often mistaken for black since it’s so dark. The shades for numbers 2 - 5 include:

   • 2- darkest brown
   • 3- dark brown
   • 4 - medium brown
   • 5 - light brown
4. 4
   View 6 - 9 as blonde. As you move up the hair chart, numbers 6 - 9 go into the blonde shades. Number 6, or dark blonde, is often mistaken for light brown, since they’re so similar in color. The shades for 6 - 9 are labeled as:

   • 6 - dark blonde
   • 7 - medium blonde
   • 8 - light blonde
   • 9 - very light blonde
5. 5
   Refer to 10 as the lightest blonde. The lightest depth color on the color chart is a 10, which is the lightest shade of blonde hair can go before it turns white. This is often the hair color you’ll need to achieve if you’re planning on going platinum blonde.

   • Some hair charts go to 11 or 12, but they’re just moving closer and closer towards a white blonde color.
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Method 2

Method 2 of 3:

Tone

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1. 1
   Read the first number after the decimal as the primary tone. The primary tone is the one that has the most impact on the hair color. Whatever number is right after the decimal is the tone that will primarily show up in the hair color, changing it into a warm or a cool tone.

   • Most hair colors look like this: 4.2.
   • For example, if the primary tone is red and the neutral color is brown, the hair color is brown with a strong hint of red.
   • Some tones will be signified by letters instead of numbers.
2. 2
   Interpret the third and fourth numbers as secondary tones. Sometimes, hair color will have as second or even a third tone along with the primary tone. These tones won’t be as strong as the first one, but they will have some influence on the overall hair color.

   • For example, a hair color with a primary and a secondary tone would look like: 4.25.
   • A hair color with 2 secondary tones looks like: 4.253.
   • For example, if the neutral hair color is brown, the primary tone is red, and the secondary tone is gold, the hair is brown with a strong red tone and gold undertones.
3. 3
   Count a 0 as no tone. If the number after the decimal is 0, that means there’s no tone at all. This is often counted as a true or neutral hair color, meaning it’s neither warm nor cool.

   • Some charts won’t use 0, and instead just leave the spot blank. In that case, you should assume there’s no tone.
4. 4
   See 0.1 as blue ash and 0.2 as mauve ash. The first 2 numbers are ash tones, meaning they add cool undertones to the base color. Blue ash is a blue color, and mauve ash is a violet color.

   • Red tones like this will counteract any green tones in the hair.
   • If the company uses letters instead of numbers, they’ll put “A” for ash.
5. 5
   Point out 0.3 as gold and 0.4 as copper. As you move up, read the numbers as metallic tones. 0.3 is a gold tone, meaning a yellow color, and 0.4 is a copper tone, meaning more of an orange. They both provide warm undertones to the neutral base color.

   • Adding warm tones like 0.3 and 0.4 can help counteract purple or blue tones in the hair.
   • If the chart uses letters instead of numbers, it will say “G” for gold and “C” for copper.
6. 6
   Define 0.5 as mahogany and 0.6 as true red. The tone 0.5 is a mahogany tone, meaning it adds a violet red to the neutral base color. It doesn’t add any undertones, but leaves the base color neutral. 0.6 is a true red, meaning it stems from a primary red color. It adds warm tones to the neutral base color.

   • Red tones look great when mixed with light or dark brown hair.
   • If the chart uses letters instead of numbers, it will say “V” for violet mahogany and “R” for ture red.
7. 7
   Refer to 0.7 as khaki, 0.8 as pearl ash, and 0.9 as soft ash. The tone 0.7 is a khaki color, meaning it stems from a true green. The tones 0.8 and 0.9 are both ash tones, but they don’t stem from a primary color. Instead, they’re their own colors, and they both add cool tones to the hair.

   • A khaki tone works well for counteracting orange tones in the hair.
   • These light ash colors are useful when toning light blonde or very light blonde to counteract any yellow tones.
   • If the chart uses letters instead of numbers, it will say “G” for green/khaki and “A” for ash.
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Method 3

Method 3 of 3:

Finding a Color

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1. 1
   Pick out your starting color using the depth numbers. To see how well your hair will lighten or darken, first you need to find where you are on the chart already. Hold your hair against the chart or look in the mirror to find out which depth you are initially.

   • Most hair can only lighten 4 to 5 levels of depth in one session.
   • If you have dye on your hair, it may be harder to lighten it.
2. 2
   Choose which base color you’d like to achieve. If you’d like to lighten or color your hair, pick out the shade that best fits the one you’re going for. Try to stay within 3 to 4 levels of your current hair color to avoid damaging your hair.

   • Remember, the depth doesn’t include any kind of tone, so you’re just picking out the neutral base color.
   • If you don’t want to change your base color, you can skip ahead to looking at tones.
3. 3
   Add in cool tones to counteract any warm tones. If you have warm undertones in your skin, pick a cool tone for your hair color to balance out your look. Try going for an ash tone if you have blonde or brown hair.

   • Champagne blonde (10.8), strawberry blonde (9.6), ash brown (5.1), chocolate brown (4.5), burgundy red (5.6), and cherry red (4.6) hair colors all look great with cool skin tones.
   • If you have black hair or you’re going for black hair, you won’t be able to add many tones to it. Black itself is a cool tone, so it will counteract any warm tones automatically.
4. 4
   Pick a warm tone to counteract your cool tones. If you have cool undertones in your skin, try going for a gold or copper tone to offset it. You can add red, copper, or gold into your hair to brighten your features.

   • Golden blonde (9.3), honey blonde (10.3), mahogany brown (5.5), chestnut brown (3.6), copper red (5.4), and ginger red (5.6) all look great on people with cool skin tones.
   • Dark hair doesn’t usually pick up tones well, so if you have dark brown or black hair, you may not be able to tone it much.
5. 5
   Choose any tone if you have neutral undertones. If you are between warm and cool or you have a mixture, you can pick out any tone that you’d like to for your hair. If your hair is darker, it may have some natural warm or cool tones in it already. If you’re going for a lighter color, you can choose a gold or red tone for some warmth, or stick with ash or violet for some icy notes.

   • The base color that you’re going for may determine which tones you should choose. If you’re going light, try sticking with cool tones. If you’re staying dark, you can add in some warm ones.
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Expert Q&A

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• Question

  How do I know my skin tone for hair color?

  

  Steven Waldman
  Professional Hair Stylist

  Steven Waldman is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Director of Technical Training at Hair Cuttery. Steven uses his creative insight and extensive experience to drive educational programming and motivates facilitators and learners to communicate effectively, create and execute strategies to maximize potential, and achieve success. He uses unexpected sources such as art genres, architecture, and cooking to inspire shape, color, and cuts.

  

  Steven Waldman

  Professional Hair Stylist

  Expert Answer

  Take a look on the underside of your forearm and you see your veins. If the veins that are the closest to the surface of your skin look blue, you probably have cool tones in your skin, because you're not seeing them reflected through light and golden pigment in your skin. If those veins look green, you're seeing like the blue vein, filtered through some warm golden tones in your skin.

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Tips

• Many hair color companies have their own versions of the hair color chart. Check on their website or directions to find your specific color number.
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• If you’re unsure about what hair color or tones would look best on you, schedule a consultation with a professional stylist.
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