How to Remove and Install a Transmission in a 1998 Chevy Truck

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Reviewed by Charley Helvy

Last Updated: March 8, 2024

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This is a step by step guide on how to remove and install a transmission in a 1998 Chevy truck

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An ideal place is a roomy garage, but a concrete driveway, or at least a firm, smooth, level surface is needed to facilitate jacking the truck safely.
Failing to do so could result in damage to the wiring harness.

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You will need to lift the front wheels at least six inches above the floor so the transmission can be removed from underneath the vehicle when it is dropped down.
Then remove the exhaust flange from the exhaust manifold. Remove the electrical and transmission oil cooler lines.
After the fluid has drained out, you need to reinstall the fluid pan back on the transmission.
Once removed, tie it up out of the way. Also, remove the speedometer cable and the vacuum hose from the shift modulator valve.
This should give you the room you need to remove the transfer case from the rear of the transmission, if the truck is four wheel drive. Remove the six bolts and remove it.
The front of the transmission will now be supported by the splined input shaft and mounts, so do not allow the rear of the transmission to drop in the following steps, or this could damage the shaft, seals, or torque converter assembly.
Remove the two bolts holding the transmission to the cross member, and the four bolts connecting the cross member to the truck's frame. Remove the cross member.
Remove the transmission, keeping it continuously supported, while sliding it toward the rear of the truck -- keeping the unit in line with the engine. You will need to slide it backward about 7 inches (17.8 cm) to clear the torque converter.
Lower the transmission to the floor, and slide it out from underneath the truck, keeping it as level as possible and in an upright position. You can now remove the bolts that attach the torque converter to the flywheel if it is to be removed for repair or replacement.
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Get the spline and input shaft to insert into the torque converter and pilot bearing. It's tricky. It has to be straight in line both ways with the insertion point, and preferably supported on its balance point (balanced from fore and aft, and side to side), securely strapped (for example) from falling, not dangling or flopping around. But, it must be angled the same as the car is (if the front of the car is raised for instance). It would be easier, if the entire car were lifted, level, not angled.
- Gravity will fight your getting it in all the way in the spline-socket and into the bearing on the end, unless it is supported at its balance point and lined up perfectly.
- Lifting the trans unsecured, or off balance, can cause chaos, wobbling, rolling, falling,...
- The spline grooves must align both ways, vertically and horizontally.
- The input shaft can hang-up on the pilot bearing edge, instead of proceeding in -- if the transmission is angled more than a few hairs -- if not balanced and aligned.
- Do not allow the spline, alone to support the weight of the transmission.

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Question

I have all the bolts pulled out of the transmission of a 1998 2-wheel-drive Chevy. How do I get it out?

Community Answer

Do you also have all the bolts out of the flywheel or torque converter? If so, it may just be tight and need a little wiggling to get out.

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Question

How do you remove the drive shaft connections?

Community Answer

Most two-wheel drive cars and trucks only have one connection. The universal joint, which is on the front facing side of your rear end, has 4 bolts. Take those 4 bolts out, as well as the carriers (the parts that the bolts are holding). After that, take a screw driver and pop the end of the drive shaft out of the universal joint holder. The drive shaft will come down, and then you can simply pull it out of the transmission end.

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Question

Does the radiator need to be replaced if the transmission is being replaced?

Community Answer

It does not need to be replaced unless it is leaking. The transmission cooler should be flushed out, though.

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Tips

Do this project on a concrete floor if possible, as a floor jack or such doesn't roll on soft surface. Strong, level, 3/4 inch (19mm) plywood may work over asphalt or gravel.

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A breaker bar and a cheater pipe on the breaker bar handle are usually needed. Pneumatic (air) tools make the job faster and easier.

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Using a transmission jack (one which lifts straight up), would make the process much easier, since the transmission is difficult to hold onto, or balance and very heavy.
- A floor jack is a pain, as it must continually be rolled forward; then pushed and pulled to stay on point or in line. It keeps changing the location of the transmission as the lift-arm changes its angle (the lift and transmission goes backward as it lifts and forward as it lowers).
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Warnings

The transmission is heavy, tilts and slides easily. Be careful lowering and raising it.

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Do not work under a vehicle that isn't properly supported, a jack is not sufficient.

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Transmission fluid is flammable and toxic, control and cleanup spills if they occur.

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