This article was co-authored by Ambia Elms. Ambia Elms is a Master Hairstylist and Owner of olive + elm Hair Salon in Gilbert. Arizona. With 27 years of industry experience, she specializes in short to medium-textured haircuts and gender-affirming hair services. Ambia and her team pride themselves on their sustainability initiatives and their status as a Certified Sustainable Salon by Green Circle Salons.
This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources.
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Sectioning hair is key to achieving the hottest styles, including those that require straightening, rolling, cutting and more. There's a reason why stylists make sectioning look so easy: It is! Start any style by washing and drying your hair. Then, by knowing where to part the sections, you'll be styling your hair like a pro in just a few minutes.
Steps
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Part hair into 7 sections for better-controlled cutting. The standard parting method taught in cosmetology schools requires diving the scalp into 7 sections: top, right side, left side, right crown, left crown, right nape and left nape.[1] You'll also pull out a .5 inches (1.3 cm) band of hair around the perimeter of the hair line.
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Section the front of your hair. Use a comb or pick to part your hair beginning at the point on top of 1 ear, and part across the top of your head to the same point above the other ear. Comb the section forward to separate it from the rest of your hair.Advertisement
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Isolate a section of hair at the top of the head. Separate the top third of the hair you just combed forward.
- Fasten the section by twisting it up into a knot and securing it with a medium-sized butterfly clip.
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Create the right side and left side sections. Clip the remaining right and left thirds of the hair you combed forward.
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Make a clean part across the back of your head. Start at the point just behind your ear on 1 side and part across to the same point behind the opposite ear. The top layer of hair will be used for your crown sections.
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Divide the crown section into the right crown and left crown. Part the crown section straight down the middle of your head. Clip each half separately.
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Use the remaining hair across the back of your head for the nape sections. Extend the crown part down the middle of your head to divide the nape into right and left sections. Clip each section separately.
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Let out a .5 inches (1.3 cm) strip along your hairline. Using your comb or pick, release the strip of hair from one section at a time, around the perimeter of your head. Be sure to follow the perimeter around the front, the sides and under your hair.
- Cut the hair. The order you will cut the sections will vary based on the style you are trying to achieve. Some require you to cut from the back up, while others may dictate you cut from the front to the back.
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Divide your scalp into thirds to style it with rollers. Not only will the sections make rolling your hair easier, but they will help ensure your curls, waves and lift all fall in the best-possible directions.[2]
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Separate the center section of your hair. Using a comb or pick, create a 2 inches (5.1 cm) wide strip in the middle of your hair, similar to a mohawk. Include hair from your forehead, down the back of your head to the nape of your neck.
- Secure the middle section by twisting it and attaching a butterfly clip.
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Pull the remaining hair into 2 loose ponytails. You should have 1 ponytail on either side of your head. Secure each side with a ponytail holder or a butterfly clip.
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Create sections the size of your rollers, starting from the front. Pull the hair taut away from your head, and place a roller on top of the section. Then just roll the hair away from your face and down to your scalp. Secure the roller.
- This works best on longer hair.
- If your sections are larger than the diameter of your rollers, then your curls will look limp.
- For short hair that's at least 2 inches (5.1 cm) long, you can try using very small rollers. If your hair is too short for rollers, follow the same rolling instructions using a 1-inch barrel curling iron, instead.
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Continue separating pieces of hair, front to back. Roll each section away from your face and down to your scalp until the whole center section is in rollers.
- The smaller your sections, the tighter your curls will be. Remember, your sections should never be larger than the diameter of your rollers.
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Roll the left side of your head. Remove the fastener from your left ponytail, and separate small sections of hair from your temple.
- Pull the section up and across your forehead.
- Hold a roller diagonally on top of the ends, and roll the strip away from your face all the way to your scalp. Secure the roller.
- Continue rolling the left section of hair, front to back, by separating roller-sized pieces of hair and rolling in the same direction as the first. Secure each roller right next to your scalp.
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Place rollers in the right section of hair. Separate roller-sized pieces of hair on the right side of your head, from your temple back, and roll them in the same way you rolled your left section.
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Allow your rollers to cool. Leave the rollers in your hair for at least 20 minutes before removing them. It may take longer for the style to set, so be patient.[3]
- If you take your rollers out too early, you will have a slight wave rather than curls.
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Divide your hair into 3 layers for best straightening results. Sections are the easiest way to ensure you don't miss any strands with your flat iron.[4]
- The thicker the hair, the more layers you'll want to section. Those with very thick hair can divide hair into 4-6 layers. Extra sections are added in the same method described below.
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Section the top of your hair. Place your thumbs behind your ears and pull the hair up, gliding your thumbs across the back of your head until they meet in the middle. Twist and clip the section to create the top layer.
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Grab the second layer of hair. Scoop up the remaining loose hair above your ears into a single section. Secure the layer with a hair tie or butterfly clip.[5]
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Leave the bottom layer of hair hanging loose. The layer just above the nape of your neck will be first section you straighten.
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Separate .5 to 2 inches (1.3 to 5.1 cm) sections of each layer. Use smaller sections for thick hair and larger sections for thin hair. Begin with the bottom layer and smooth the straightener from about .5 inches (1.3 cm) away from your scalp steadily down your hair shaft.[6]
- When the bottom layer is finished, continue separating small sections of hair in the middle layer. Smooth hair with the flat iron from a .5 inches (1.3 cm) away from your scalp down the hair shaft.
- Lift hair from your scalp when straightening the top layer. After separating small sections of your top layer of hair, place the flat iron as close to your roots as possible. Press the iron firmly closed and draw it down the hair shaft outward from your head.
- For pin-straight, divide each layer into small sections. Glide the straightener only a few times over each section before moving along.[7]
- If your prefer smoother hair, divide it into larger sections. Then clamp the flat iron tightly and run it over each part slowly, ensuring the heat penetrates each section but with less direct contact.
Expert Q&A
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QuestionDo you have to section hair for curling?Ambia ElmsAmbia Elms is a Master Hairstylist and Owner of olive + elm Hair Salon in Gilbert. Arizona. With 27 years of industry experience, she specializes in short to medium-textured haircuts and gender-affirming hair services. Ambia and her team pride themselves on their sustainability initiatives and their status as a Certified Sustainable Salon by Green Circle Salons.
Master HairstylistStart at the bottom and clip up the top sections of your hair, dropping down the hair that's at the occipital bone (the bone that sticks out in the back of your head). Grab pieces of hair that are only as wide as the curling iron you're using. Alternate the direction you curl each section of hair to create more of a disheveled look, or rotate your curls in the same direction to create a smoother, more cohesive look. Then, drop down another section of hair starting at the top of your ear and continue curling. -
QuestionHow do you section your hair before dying it?Ambia ElmsAmbia Elms is a Master Hairstylist and Owner of olive + elm Hair Salon in Gilbert. Arizona. With 27 years of industry experience, she specializes in short to medium-textured haircuts and gender-affirming hair services. Ambia and her team pride themselves on their sustainability initiatives and their status as a Certified Sustainable Salon by Green Circle Salons.
Master HairstylistSection your hair in quadrants! Do a center part all the way down to the back of the head and then split that in two, going from the top of the head to the top of the ear. Work on one quadrant at a time—if you're going lighter with your hair and using bleach, also start in the back, which is naturally darker. Never start bleaching at your hairline, since the hair tends to be thinner, finer, and more fragile. -
QuestionWhy do we need to do hair sectioning?HoldencaulfieldCommunity AnswerSectioning the hair allows for it to be more easily styled, cut and blow dried. Many women prefer sectioning their hair because it makes it easier to handle. This is especially true for people with long, luscious locks.
Video
Tips
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Hair ties work best to secure short hair, while longer and medium-length hair is better secured with butterfly clips.Thanks
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Before straightening your hair, apply a heat protectant to limit damage.Thanks
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A rat-tail comb will help if you want firm divisions between the sections.Thanks
Things You'll Need
- Comb/pick
- Hair ties/butterfly clips
- Hair rollers/curling iron (optional)
- Flat iron (optional)
Expert Interview
Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about hair care, check out our in-depth interview with Ambia Elms.
References
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ObRvVepXRc
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOqutR6aY3Y
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAebb3njP3A
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTV00kyuTm0
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yRZWyJhnSg
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yRZWyJhnSg
- ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmLDQ9QC6IU
About This Article
If you want to cut or style your hair, it’s best to divide it into sections to make it easier. If you’re cutting your hair, part it into 7 sections at your top, right side, left side, right crown, left crown, right nape and left nape. If you’re straightening your hair, divide it into 3 to 6 layers, depending on how thick your hair is. You want each section to be 1 or 2 inches thick. Start with the top of your head and work your way down to the nape of your neck. Use your fingers or a comb to collect one section at a time. Then, secure it with a butterfly clip or hair tie. For more tips from our Beauty co-author, including how to section your hair for rolling, read on!