How to Set Up a Hamster Cage

Co-authored by Alisa Rassin

Last Updated: September 5, 2024 Approved

Hamsters are excellent pets for teenagers and adults alike, but are unfortunately very much misunderstood. They are territorial creatures that like to dig and burrow, as well as being very active and energetic. Hamsters are also very clean animals, and when you have one as a pet it is up to you to provide and maintain a hygienic home for them. It is important to provide your hamster with as good a living environment as possible so they don’t get bored and stressed. The cage is the most important investment you will make for your hamster, so think about what your hamster needs for a healthy and happy home before you make a purchase.

Part 1

Part 1 of 4:

Getting a Hamster Cage

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1
Research hamster cages. First of all, you need to think about what kind and size of cage you need to make your hamster as happy and content as possible. The minimum amount of floor space required for hamsters is 600 sq inches. Keep that in mind, as most pet stores sell hamster cages that are far too small and costly. ^{[1]
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Research source} Bin cages are cheap and big; look up "how to make a hamster bin cage" and a lot of videos and articles will show up. They are easy and cheap to make, and definitely worth the time. Be sure that whichever cage you choose it is one which has a solid floor so that you can provide ample bedding material for digging and burrowing. ^{[2]
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Research source}Wire or mesh floors can also cause a painful disease called Bumblefoot.
- Connecting many smaller cages that end up being 600 sq. inches doesn't count, as is done in Habitrail Ovo or Crittertrail. Hamsters run miles and miles in the wild, so they need a continuous running space, not a lot of tiny compartments connected together.
- Syrian and Chinese hamsters can NOT be kept together in one cage as they are very territorial and WILL fight. They could seriously injure or kill each other.
2
Buy a big cage, as big as possible! There are three most popular minimums, and although it is not the law, you should get a cage that is big enough. The American minimum is on the small side. The German minimum is best, but the RSPCA minimum will do. You cannot connect multiple smaller cages to make the minimum, as hamsters need the space to run around as they would in the wild. The minimums are:
- American/Hamster Hideout forum minimum - 360 sq. in
- RSPCA/United Kingdom minimum - 80x50cm
- German minimum - 1 sq. m
- Although recommendations vary, the basic principle is the bigger the better.
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It's best to start with a new cage, but if you buy or use an old one, clean it with mild baby soap, and rinse throughout. To take away the smell of the of the previous occupant, you can also use a mixture of white vinegar and water but only do this occasionally. You can also get some pet-safe disinfectant spray or wipes
4
Decide where to put the cage. You should take care when deciding where you will put the cage, as this will contribute to the overall wellbeing of your hamster. You want to avoid extremes of heat, so keep it out of direct sunlight and don’t put it next or a radiator or other heat-source. Equally, don’t put it somewhere very draughty. If you don’t want to keep it in the house you can put it in a frost-free garden shed or garage, but provide more bedding if you do this.
- Hamsters are very sensitive to light and high-frequency sound. Don’t put it in a room that will have lights going on and off at night, and keep it away from things such as televisions, computer screens, sources of running water and vacuum cleaners. These generate ultrasound which can be distressing for hamsters.^{[3]
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- If you have a wire cage and want to avoid your floor getting too messy from the flying substrate, cut down a cardboard box, which the cage can comfortably sit in (with a few centimetres of clearance around the sides), so that it’s sides are not higher than 10cm, and place it in that.

Part 2

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Equipping your Cage

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1
Buy a wheel. Hamsters are very active and need lots of things to exercise in their cages, getting a wheel is a good place to start. Dwarf hamsters need a 6.5 - 8 inch wheel and Chinese hamsters need an 8 inch wheel. Larger hamsters, including Syrian hamsters need a 12 inch wheel. It's very important to get a wheel that is big enough for your hamster. Flying saucers cannot replace a normal upright wheel, as it encourages an unnatural way of running. NEVER use barred or mesh wheels, as your hamster can trap a limb or get bumblefoot (painful sores on the feet).
- One way to tell if it is too small is to look to see if your hamster is running with an arched back, like a smiley face. If they are, then the wheel is likely too small.
If you buy a bottle, buy a good one that doesn't leak too much. If you get a bowl, buy something like a small bendy log bridge to put over it so that your hamster doesn't bury it or get wood shavings in it, or you can place the bowl on a small shelf.
3
Decide whether to get a food bowl or scatter-feed. Using a bowl enables you to keep a good track on how much they are eating, and can be cleaner and easier. However, using scatter feeding brings out the hamster's natural foraging skills. You can also do a mix of both. If you have a pair of dwarves, then scatter feeding is advisable as it can prevent fighting. If you have a Chinese hamster (note! Not dwarf hamsters. Despite what a pet shop may have told you, they're solitary like Syrians, even the males) or a Syrian hamster then it is advisable to get a food bowl so that you can check their eating habits.
- If you get a bowl, buy a small one so it doesn't take up too much cage space.
Most houses are suitable for dwarf hamsters and Chinese hamsters, but many are much too small for a Syrian hamster. Bendy bridges can be turned into lovely cave-style houses if you bury them under the substrate! Some hamsters make nests, but they need somewhere to hide and store food anyway.
Hamsters are very energetic and need lots of toys. Make sure to get chews as their teeth never stop growing! Hamsters love toys that they can climb and hide-and-seek style toys. Get some tubes, too - they're no replacement for digging but hamsters love running through them! Make sure that they're big enough, though - many tubes aren't big enough for Syrian hamsters. Also check that they have ventilation, as if they are long tubes your hamster may have trouble breathing in them.

Part 3

Part 3 of 4:

Providing Substrate and Nesting Material

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The substrate is the disposable material you fill out the bottom of your cage with. It’s important to get a good one as it will absorb your hamster’s urine and be what they dig into. There are a number of options other than the traditional wood shavings, and some specialist websites have reviews of different types. Stay away from substrates such as pine or cedar, as they can cause severe respiratory problems! Use 6cm, or 3in, or more of substrate, as hamsters love to dig. Carefresh is a nice bedding and so is aspen.
2
Choose some nesting material. As well as substrate, getting some separate bedding or nesting material is important. While bedding is like the carpet, nesting material is like the blankets. Avoid material that can separate into small strands like fluffy bedding and cotton wool. This can cause serious problems for your hamster through ingestion. They could also become entangled and get a limb trapped^{[4]
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Research source}. Their instincts would be to pull on the limb until it was dislocated, although some very desperate hamsters have been reported to chew their own limbs off and die of blood loss!
- Shredded tissue or toilet paper, in this case, is the best nesting material.
3
Make sure you have enough and change it regularly. It’s good to have a nice stock of substrate and bedding at home, so you are prepared and can change it regularly. You will need to keep a close on the cage and keep it clean. It’s recommended to scoop out substrate that is wet from urine every week, called spot cleaning, which will only take a few minutes. The amount of times you clean your cage completely will depend on how large your cage is. 1000 sq. inches or larger cages can withstand a year or more without a full cage cleanout, but smaller cages may need to be cleaned once a month.
- It’s a good idea to have a regular cleaning schedule, as your hamster could be distressed if the cage is cleaned too often or too seldom. ^{[5]
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- Spot clean the cage to remove poo daily to prevent wet-tail.

Part 4

Part 4 of 4:

Keeping your Cage a Healthy and Stimulating Environment

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In addition to keeping the cage clean, it’s important to keep it refreshed with toys and things to chew on and dig in. Try giving them empty cereal or granola bar boxes with the printed outside removed to prevent exposure to inks. Hamsters like empty toilet-paper tubes, too, and will love to play in them until they chew them to shreds. Make sure to cut them so Syrian hamsters can fit.
2
Handle your hamsters daily. Hamsters love attention! They each have their own personalities, but handling them regularly will help you get used to each other. But of course, you should be careful at all times. For example, don’t hold them by the legs and wheelbarrow them. It strains their little legs and can hurt them or in severe cases break their limbs.
- Always pick up a hamster by scooping them up from below; otherwise, you may get bitten.
- Make sure you give them a chance to get comfortable with their new cage before handling them (about a week is best). Moving into a new cage is a big event for a hamster and they will be more interested in human attention once they are happy.
3
Give your pet a weekly home check-up. It’s crucial to provide a good environment for your hamster, but you can also check on their health by listening to their breathing, and if there is wheezing call a vet. Check their paws for lacerations; check their teeth; check their skin to see if there are any signs of flaky or irritated skin. Make sure their nose is dry and their eyes clear.
- You may consider weighing them to see if they're gaining or losing weight, which could tip you off to problems.

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What foods can they not eat?

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Chocolate, candy, meats in high fat, the leafy green parts of a tomato, junk food, beans, potatoes, onions, garlic, peppers, and all citrus foods.

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How long can I leave a hamster alone? Is it safe to bring a hamster on a long car trip?

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You can leave a hamster alone for a day or two as long as it has food and water. Personally, I wouldn't take a hamster on a trip. I would have someone come and take care of my hamster while I was away.

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Could I leave it home whilst I go to work?

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As long as your hamster has adequate food and water and cannot get out of his/her cage, then he/she will be fine if you have to leave the house. I leave my hamster for 7 hours when I'm at school and he is fine.

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Tips

Never get critter trail or other cramped cages with many tubes and plastic items as they are too small and your furry pet won't enjoy it.

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If you have a very active hamster, then hold them just above their cage.

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Hamsters get thirsty quick and need a lot, so make sure you have a decent size bottle.

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The advice in this section is based on the lived experiences of wikiHow readers like you. If you have a helpful tip you’d like to share on wikiHow, please submit it in the field below.

Research multiple credible sources when learning about hamster care, don't just rely on one site. Cross-check to get the full picture.
Avoid putting hamsters in outdoor sheds or barns, no matter the temperature. They need a consistently stable indoor environment.
Never hold a hamster by their legs or drop them. Their small limbs are fragile and can be damaged. Always scoop up from below.
Check on your hamster daily for signs of illness: labored breathing, limping, flaky skin, eye discharge. Catch problems early.
Look to dedicated hamster forums like Hamster Hideout for care info. Enthusiasts share experience and the latest knowledge.
Add lots of chew toys if your hamster bites cage bars. Chewing alleviates boredom and files down constantly growing teeth.

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Warnings

If they have loose stools (mushy poop) or have stuff stuck to their bottom, call a vet immediately! This is a sign of many serious illnesses or wet tail in hamsters.

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If you have other pets that may scare or even eat your hamster, then keep the cage in a room where they aren't allowed and secure the cage.

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Chinese hamsters are NOT dwarf hamsters, and they are not social.

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Syrian hamsters and Chinese hamsters MUST be kept alone or they will kill each other.

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Never leave the cage open!

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Some people take hamsters outside in playpens, but it is a terrible idea - there are parasites, predators and diseases outside that may kill your hamster!

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Dwarf hamsters should be kept alone if you are a beginner. Although they can live in pairs, it often ends in them being separated. It is entirely false that dwarf hamsters need to be kept in pairs, as they will be just as happy on their own. NEVER introduce them to hamsters from another litter.

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If you are planning on getting a hamster for a child, think carefully. No matter how much you think your child would be responsible, chances are they won't - that's just the nature of children. If they really want a pet, then consider adopting a family dog or cat, as they are surprisingly more easy to look after if you get them from a rescue and they're an adult. Only get one for a teenager if they love animals, as teens normally won't injure them, but they may neglect them.

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Don't have cages with multiple levels or attachments if you have a pair of dwarfs, as it causes territorial issues.

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