How to Sew Organza

Co-authored by Ira Lysa

Last Updated: January 22, 2024

Organza is a stiff silk fabric that is often used for wedding gowns and other types of special occasion dresses. It can add structure and volume to a dress or other design, but it can also be difficult to sew. To improve the outcome of a project that uses organza, you will need to know some of the do’s and don’ts of sewing with it. You may also want to take some extra care when preparing, measuring, and cutting your fabric.

Method 1

Method 1 of 2:

Working With Organza

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1
Change your sewing machine needle. Your regular needle might be okay for sewing organza, but it is best to check it first. You will need a size 8 to 11 (60 to 75) universal needle for working with organza fabric.^{[1]
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- You could also try using a small size sharp point needle. These are usually best for sewing with delicate fabrics.
- Make sure you have changed your needle recently. You should replace your needle after every project or at least after every four hours of sewing with the same needle.^{[2]
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Sew with a regular weight cotton thread. You don’t need to get a specialty thread to work with organza. Just use a regular weight cotton thread to sew your project.^{[3]
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- Opt for a color that is close to the color of your fabric to help the stitches blend in. Otherwise, they may stand out and this may look unappealing. For example, if you are using a pale pink organza fabric, then opt for a pale pink thread to match.
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3
Set your machine to the straight stitch setting. When sewing with organza, your best bet is to use the straight stitch setting. This is the most basic stitch you can use and it will result in a straight, clean line. Avoid using fancy stitches for organza fabric.^{[4]
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- After you have your straight stitch seam, you may want to add a zigzag seam next to it towards the outer edge. This can help to reinforce the seam and the seam won’t be visible because it will be on the outer edge.^{[5]
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Avoid backstitching. It is important to avoid backstitching with organza fabric because this can damage the fabric. Only sew across your fabric one time and in one direction. Make sure that all of your settings are correct before you begin.^{[6]
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- Also, keep in mind that you cannot use a seam ripper for organza fabrics. Tearing out stitches will damage the fabric. If you make a mistake, then you might need to just get new fabric and start over.
To avoid puckering, it is important to place even pressure on both sides of the organza as you sew. Keep one hand behind the presser foot and the other hand in front of it to hold the organza. Keep the fabric taut, but don’t stretch it or apply too much pressure or it may tear or affect the stitching.^{[7]
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Before you start sewing your organza, try testing your stitches on a scrap piece of organza fabric first. This will help to ensure that the stitch you are using will not damage your fabric and give you a chance to adjust your settings before you work on the actual project.^{[8]
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Method 2

Method 2 of 2:

Ensuring a Successful Project

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1
Opt for simple designs. Sheers like organza are fancy enough on their own, so it is not necessary to use an intricate design when you are working with them. Instead, opt for simple designs that will showcase the fabric.^{[9]
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- For example, you might want to avoid things like pleating and intricate draping.
2
Pre-wash your fabric only if necessary. If you anticipate needing to wash it later on, then it is important to do a pre-wash before sewing to ensure that the fabric will not shrink after you sew it.^{[10]
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Research source} Keep in mind that it is generally best not to wash organza, so if you do not anticipate needing to wash it, then don’t pre-wash it.^{[11]
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- Also, be aware that pre-washing organza will soften the fabric, so it may not provide the same amount of structure before it has been washed.^{[12]
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Press the fabric with a dry iron if needed. If your fabric is wrinkled or creased, then you may want to press it before you sew. However, the steam from an iron can leave water spots or cause discoloration to organza fabric. Use a dry iron to press the fabric if needed.^{[13]
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- Make sure that the iron is on the lowest setting.^{[14]
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Hold down the edges when measuring and cutting. Organza is slippery, so it is important to weigh it down to prevent it from moving while you measure and cut it. You can use weights, push pins, or tape to hold down your fabric.^{[15]
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- Try using double sided tape to attach the organza to your work surface.^{[16]
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- Keep in mind that pinning can damage the fabric, so use them sparingly, if at all.^{[17]
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Use a pencil, pen, or chalk to mark the fabric. Organza can get stained easily, so avoid using a marker or anything else that might not come off the fabric easily. A pencil, pen, or piece of chalk will probably work best for marking.^{[18]
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- Test out your marking method on a scrap piece of fabric first to see if it will come out easily.