The Best Way to Apply Joint Compound (Drywall Mud) for Beginners

Whether you’re redoing the walls in your home or patching a hole, joint compound (or drywall mud) is important for bonding the pieces together. While joint compound can take a few days to apply, the process is easy even for a DIYer. Keep reading and we’ll walk you through the different kinds of joint compound, how to mix them, and how to apply it to your drywall.

How to Use Drywall Compound: Quick Steps

Brush dust off your drywall with a clean cloth.
Apply a thin coat of joint compound over drywall seams with a putty knife.
Press drywall tape into the compound over the seams.
Let the joint compound dry completely.
Apply a second coat of compound over a larger area.
Sand the compound smooth with a sanding block.
Apply a third coat of compound and sand it down once it’s dry.

Section 1 of 4:

How to Apply Joint Compound to Drywall

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Cover the floors with drop cloths. Spread the drop cloths over your entire workspace so you don’t get any joint compound or dust on the floor while you’re working.^{[1]
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- While you’re working, put on some old clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty. Otherwise, put on a pair of coveralls to stay clean.
- Keep a fan in the room or open the windows so it stays well-ventilated. That way, dust won’t gather up as much and the joint compound will dry faster.
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Brush the drywall seams to remove dust. Use a soft cleaning brush or lint-free cloth to clean off the drywall. Focus on the seams and indentations from screws where dust builds up.^{[2]
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- If any screwheads stick out past the drywall, tighten them with a screwdriver until they’re flush with the wall.
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3
Apply a first coat of joint compound to the seams and screws. Scoop the joint compound out with a putty knife. Start with the horizontal seams. Hold the putty knife at a slight angle to the drywall. Pull the knife across the seam to spread the joint compound in thin, even layer. Smooth out the compound as you go so there aren’t any raised areas.^{[3]
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- After you do the horizontal seams, then spread the compound over the screw holes so they’re filled in. After that, do the vertical seams.
- If you’re applying joint compound to a corner of the room, start from the ceiling and work your way down so it’s easier to spread.
4
Place strips of drywall tape over the joints. Measure the length of the seam and cut a piece of drywall tape to the same length. Press the end of the tape into the joint compound so it sticks. Then, smooth the tape onto the surface with your putty knife to remove any air bubbles or raised areas.^{[4]
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- Drywall tape holds the pieces of drywall together to create a stronger joint that’s less likely to crack or warp as it ages.
- When you apply drywall tape to corners, crease the tape down the middle so it fits properly. Use your putty knife to press the tape into the corner.
5
Let the joint compound dry completely. Drying time depends on the type of joint compound you used, but it’s usually dry after leaving it overnight. If it’s humid or if you applied a thicker layer of joint compound, it may take up to a few days instead.^{[5]
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- Always check the drying time on the joint compound’s packaging.
- Avoid rushing the next steps before your joint compound dries, or it could form a weaker joint or leave marks on your walls.
6
Add a second coat of joint compound and let it dry. When you put on the second coat, apply the compound over the drywall tape. Spread the compound further out from the seam than the previous coat so it smoothly transitions into your wall. Be sure to coat all the horizontal and vertical seams, corners of the room, and screw holes.^{[6]
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- Let the second coat of drywall dry overnight or for the amount of time listed on the packaging.
7
Sand any imperfections down with a sanding block. Wear safety goggles and a dust mask to protect yourself from dust. Inspect the joint compound for any raised areas or ridges. Hold the sanding block flush against the wall and gently move it in circular motions. Keep sanding until the compound and drywall look flat.^{[7]
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- Avoid applying too much pressure or sanding too much because you could create depressions or low spots in the drywall.
- If you need to reach higher on the wall, use a pole sander instead.
8
Apply a final third coat of joint compound to the surface. Use your largest putty knife for the final coat of joint compound. As you spread the compound over the seams, feather it out about 12 inches (30 cm) out from the seam on each side so it makes a smooth transition into your wall.^{[8]
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- To properly feather out the compound, start from the middle of the seam and pull the putty knife out. Apply less pressure as you move away from the seam to make a smooth transition.
- Leave the joint compound overnight to dry, or as long as the package instructions recommend.
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Sand the compound smooth. Put on your dust mask and goggles, and check the final coat of joint compound for any raised areas. Use your sanding block to smooth out any imperfections you see in the surface.^{[9]
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- If you’re applying joint compound for a small patch or repair, then consider wet-sanding the wall. Dampen your sanding block and gently scrub the wall so the dust gets trapped. Let the drywall dry completely before finishing it.
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Dab joint compound across the wall to create texture, if desired. Crystal Chadwick, a general contractor, mentions that texturing is easy with joint compound. She recommends spreading the compound evenly over a metal drywall hawk. Then, create peaks in the compound with a putty knife so it has an uneven texture. Then, just dab the compound across your wall in a random pattern.
- Let the texture dry for a day or two so it sets completely.
- If you’d prefer to have smooth walls, you don’t need to texture them.
After you finish sanding, brush your walls with a soft cleaning brush and use a vacuum to clean up the drywall dust. Once you remove the dust, you’re ready to prime. Professional contractor Sam Adams recommends using polyvinyl chloride (PVA) primer, which is specifically made for new drywall. Once your primer is dry, you're ready to paint your wall.

Section 2 of 4:

Types of Joint Compound (Drywall Mud)

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All-purpose joint compound is the most versatile type and works well for your first, second, and third coats. All-purpose joint compound tends to be thicker and heavier, so it takes longer to dry and a little more elbow grease to sand smooth.^{[10]
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Lightweight joint compound Lightweight joint compound is thinner, so it’s easier to apply and sand down. It also dries slightly lighter than standard all-purpose compound, so it may be a good choice if you’re painting your wall a light color.^{[11]
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- Lightweight joint compound works best for second and third coats, or for texturing your drywall.
Topping compound is the thinnest joint compound, so it’s the easiest to spread and works really well for feathering out seams. Switch to topping compound during your final coat or for when you’re texturing your wall.^{[12]
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Powdered joint compound Powdered joint compound needs to be mixed with water before you apply it, and it dries more quickly than premixed varieties. The number on the packaging refers to how long the compound is workable, so you only have 40 minutes to apply one with “40” printed on the bag.^{[13]
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- Powdered joint compound works best for your filling seams in your first or second coat, or for patching holes in drywall.
- Avoid using powdered joint compound as a finishing coat because it’s more difficult to sand down.

Section 3 of 4:

How much water should you add to joint compound?

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Use a 2-to-1 ratio of powdered joint compound and water. Put the water in a bucket first, and then add the powdered joint compound. Use a drill with a paddle attachment to mix the joint compound until it has a consistency similar to sour cream.^{[14]
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- Mixing instructions may vary, so always follow the directions listed on the joint compound’s packaging.
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Add ¹⁄₂ c (120 ml) of water to premixed joint compound for the final coat. For the last coat, thinning your compound makes it easier to spread and reduces the drying time. Pour the package of joint compound and water into a large bucket, and mix it together with a drill and paddle attachment. Keep mixing until the compound has a mayonnaise-like consistency.^{[15]
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- If your joint compound is still too thick, add ¹⁄₄ c (59 ml) at a time.

Section 4 of 4:

Types of Drywall Tape

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Paper tape Paper tape is non-adhesive, so it only sticks to drywall after you apply the first coat of joint compound. Because paper tape is so thin, it creates the least noticeable seam.^{[16]
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- Paper tape usually has a crease through the middle so you can fold it to use in corners.
- Paper tape creates the strongest joints, so it’s a good choice for butt joints along the short edges of your drywall.
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Fiberglass mesh tape Mesh drywall tape is made of more durable material, and it has adhesives so it sticks to drywall without any compound. After you apply the tape to a seam, spread the joint compound and push it through the mesh.^{[17]
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- Mesh tape is slightly thicker than paper tape, so it could be more noticeable when you finish your wall.
Preformed tape, also known as corner beading, are rigid plastic or metal pieces that are made to fit around corners. Preformed tape adds extra protection to the drywall seams and it makes it easier to apply joint compound.^{[18]
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Community Q&A

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Question

Does drywall mud spoil after years?

Community Answer

No. However, like any dry powder mix, it is susceptible to dampness, clumping, etc. Keep it in a plastic bag in a medium temperature, low/no humidity location. Shake it up before use.

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Keep the room well-ventilated while you’re working with joint compound to help it dry faster and to prevent drywall dust from building up.

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Warnings

Powdered joint compound usually starts to harden in a short amount of time, so only mix as much as you’re going to use.

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