This article was co-authored by Bill Green and by wikiHow staff writer, Aimee Payne, MFA. Bill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople.
There are 21 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page.
This article has been fact-checked, ensuring the accuracy of any cited facts and confirming the authority of its sources.
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Learning how to change a watch band is a cost-effective way to replace a broken band or simply update the look of your watch. In many instances, watch bands can be replaced relatively easily with patience and a few simple tools. Once you’ve mastered replacing the band, you can change it in a few minutes whenever you like. We spoke with Jewelry and Watch Expert Bill Green to learn more about how to change a watch band at home. Read on to learn more!
Steps
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Put the watch face down on a folded cloth or towel. Spread the cloth onto a flat surface, such as a table or countertop, that you will use as a workspace. This protects the face of your watch and helps you avoid scratching the glass.
- Always remove the spring bar from the back to avoid scratching the crystal covering your watch’s face.[1]
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Locate the spring bar and detach it from the watch case. Look closely at the area where the watch band connects to the watch case. The vast majority of watch bands are connected by a spring bar, which passes through a loop or hole in the band and fits into indents on the shoulders of the watch, says Green. Insert the forked end of a spring bar tool between the band and where the spring bar connects with the watch shoulder or lug. Gently push the spring bar down and release it from the lug.[2]
- If you don't have a spring bar tool, try removing the spring bar using a small flathead screwdriver or something similar. You may also be able to remove it without any tools, just by using your fingernail, but this will be trickier.
- Another option is trying to use a paperclip to compress one end of the spring bar and then carefully lever out the band. When using any tool, be careful not to scratch your watch or damage the band.
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Remove the spring bars from the band. Once you detach the band from the watch, slide the spring bar out of the loops at the ends of the band and put them to one side. Do this for each half of the band. You may need these bars to attach the new band, so it's important you don't lose them.[3]
- Check if your watch has end caps before removing the spring bar by looking at the space between the lugs. If it appears that the band flows into the watch case and there are no gaps, you probably have end caps.
- If uncertain, turn it over and look from the back. A watch with end caps has an extra metal piece at the end of the band with two parts protruding out like wings on either side.[4]
- The spring bar also attaches the end caps to the band and watch case, so once you release the spring bar, they may fall, so keep an eye out for them.
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Thread the spring bar through the ends of the new band. When you’re ready to attach your replacement watch band, you basically go through the same process, but in reverse. Start by carefully threading the spring bars through the loop or hole at the top of each side of the band.[5]
- Your new band may have come with its own spring bars. Make sure they fit the indents in your watch lugs.
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Insert the bottom end of one spring bar into the watch lug indent. Take one half of the band, and carefully place the bottom part of the spring bar into the indent in the shoulder, or case lug, of the watch. Put the spring bar back into the place where it was before you took off the old band.[6]
- Once the bottom end of the spring bar is in the hole, carefully apply pressure downwards on the bar so you can slide the top part into the corresponding lug indent or hole.
- You may find it easier to use your tool to compress the spring bar when you are maneuvering it.
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Place the second spring bar to install the other side of the watch band. Now repeat the process with the other half of the band. Begin by slipping the bottom part of the spring bar into the small hole in the watch case’s lug. Then, gently press down and slide the other end of the bar into the opposite hole.[7]
- Listen for a slight clicking sound that indicates the bar is fixed in the place in the hole.
- Once both parts of the band are in, check they are securely positioned and your band is not likely to fall off.
- If the watchband has end caps, slide the spring bar into the end caps first. Then move it into position between the lugs, pressing the bottom of the spring bar into the lower lug. Depress the spring bar, and after some maneuvering, click it into the hole in the top lug.[8]
- Bands with end caps have less regular sizing than flat-ended bands, so it is advisable to check with a watchmaker or jeweler to ensure your new band will fit.
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Visit a jeweler or watch store if you’re struggling to change the band. A quick visit to a local jeweler or watch store to have your watch band replaced by a professional. Green says that with the right tools and some practice, it is quite simple to change the band, so the jeweler will be able to do it very quickly. If you are buying a new band, the jeweler will often offer to change the band for you for free.
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Use a small jeweler’s screwdriver to detach the set screws. Green says, “When you have an adjustable band for higher-end watches…they may be screw based. For instance, many of the Rolexes, you have to unscrew.” If there are small holes on the outside of the lugs, this means that your band is attached with small screws that pass through the lugs. Insert a small jeweler or watchmaker’s flathead screwdriver or another similar tool into the lug hole at the 12 o’clock side of the watch until you feel it catch on one end of the set screw, the small screw that secures the end of the screw pin. Turn the screwdriver counter-clockwise until the set screw is loose.[9]
- The set screws are identified by a small arrow on the back of the watch case near the lugs.[10]
- Repeat this process on the set screw on the 6 o’clock side of the watch.
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Flip the watch and remove the long screw pins. Using the screwdriver, loosen the screw pin and then pull it out of the lug. Non-magnetic tweezers can be a useful tool to help you do this. As you flip the watch, the set screws may fall to your work surface. Make sure you watch for them and place them in a safe space to use when you install the new watch band.[11]
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Thread the screw pins into place and line up the new watch band pieces. Carefully thread the screw pin so only the tip extends from the inside of the lug hole. Line up the hole or loop in the end of the band with the lug holes and push the screw pin through the end of the band and into the opposite lug hole.[12]
- Tighten the screw pin with the watchmaker’s screwdriver. Turn it clockwise a couple of times to secure it.
- Repeat on the opposite side to secure the other piece of the new watch band.
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Place the set screws in the opposite lug holes. Carefully insert the set screw into the lug hole at the other end of the screw pin. Tighten it with the watchmaker’s screwdriver. When you feel resistance, add a little force to turn the screwdriver an additional ¼ turn.[13]
- Repeat on the other side of the watch.
- Consider replacing the worn screws, especially in valuable heirloom pieces that often have bands secured with screw pins.
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Loosen the strap by pulling it through the strap keeper and spring bar. Pull the long end of the strap not attached to the buckle back toward the watch and out of the strap keeper (the small band attached to the watch strap). Gently pull on the piece of strap that runs along the back of the watch case until the end is free of the watch.[14]
- A NATO-style watch band is a single-piece, military-type nylon strap that became popular after Sean Connery wore a similar strap in the James Bond film Goldfinger.[15]
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Pull the rest of the strap through the opposite spring bar. Grasp the end of the strap with the buckle and pull it away from the watch case. The band will easily slide free of the spring bar on the other side of the watch.[16]
- After removing the first side of the watch band, the strap is only loosely connected to the watch, so make sure you have a good hold on the watch case, or you may drop it.
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Remove the long end of the new strap from the strap keeper. This separates the two layers of the strap and allows you to install the strap onto the watch case. If your new NATO-style strap is not threaded through the strap keeper, it’s not a problem. Just skip that step.
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Feed the new strap between the spring bar at the watch case’s top. Hold the watch case face up. Feed the long end of the NATO-style strap (not connected to the buckle) down into the gap between the watch case and the spring bar at the 12 o’clock side of the watch face.[17]
- Make sure the watch strap is also face up with the buckle piece extending from the bottom, or you won’t be able to close the band properly.
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Run the strap along the case’s back and through the other spring bar. Keep the watch band flat as you feed the long end up through the gap between the spring bar and the 6 o’clock side of the watch case.[18]
- Be careful not to twist the band as doing so will make it uncomfortable to wear.
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Adjust the watch case and thread the strap end through the keeper. Pull the band tight against the back of the watch. Then, slide the watch case past the buckle adjustment holes. Position the watch case roughly halfway between the first hole and the buckle on the opposite side.[19]
- Push the long end of the strap through the strap keeper on the piece that hangs from the buckle end to create the watch’s second layer.
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Place your Apple Watch face-down on a soft towel. Protect the glass on the front of your Apple watch by placing a soft towel on your work surface. Then, put the watch face-down on the towel. This helps avoid scratching the screen of your watch.
- You may want to turn off your Apple watch by pressing and holding the power switch before changing the band.
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Press the band-release buttons and slide the bands to remove them. The ends of Apple Watch bands are locked in place. To remove your Apple Watch band, press and hold the release button and then slide the end of the band out of the base. The band release buttons are on the back of your watch near the top and bottom edges of your case. They are oblong and the same color as the case.[20]
- Make sure you press and hold the button as you slide the band from the base, or it won’t slide free.
- Apple Watch bands slide in both directions, so it doesn’t matter which way you push the band as long as you’re pushing the button.
- Repeat this step to remove the other side of the watch band.
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Slide the tab ends of the new watch band into the slots on the screen. The new Apple Watch band fits into the same slots as the old one you just removed. Simply line up the tabs of the watch band with the slots and slide them in.[21]
- You don’t have to press the button on the back of the watch to install a new band. Just slide it in.
- Make sure to match up the back of the watch with the back of the watch band. If you installed the band backward, just remove the end and flip it over.
Expert Q&A
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QuestionCan I fit a watch band tightly without removing the links?Bill GreenBill Green is an Expert Jeweler and Appraiser. He is also the Founder & Creative Director of Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix, and the Founder and Designer of Amaroo Handmade Opal Jewelry, based in Haddonfield, New Jersey. With over 40 years of industry knowledge, he and his team are known for restoring everything from new watches to vintage jewels and being one of the few shops that still design and make jewelry and watches. Jewelry & Timepiece Mechanix is part of the American Society of Jewelers and Gemologists and Ethical Metalsmiths. Bill studied at the Miami Jewelry Institute and the Gemological Institute of America as well as apprenticed with many accomplished craftspeople.
Jewelry & Watch ExpertTo snugly fit a watch band without removing links, inspect the snap-down deployment buckle. On some watches, you'll notice small holes or dots along the side of the buckle, near the edge. These dots indicate the attachment points for the internal spring bar. To tighten the band, press the spring bar and shift the buckle inward toward the center. This action effectively reduces the length of the bracelet by the distance between the dots. Depending on the watch model, there may be some room for adjustment in this manner. However, the degree of adjustability varies depending on the specific watch design, and some may not even have this at all. In this case, I suggest bringing your watch to a watchmaker or a jewelry store for proper adjustments and maybe a new watch band that will fit you. -
QuestionI tore my watch band. Can I tear off the rest of the band to turn it into a pocket watch?Community AnswerYou can if you want to. It all comes down to personal preference.
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QuestionWhat do I do if the adjustable bar won't stay in on my watch?Community AnswerTry to get a longer spring bar to fit it in. If the spring bar hole has been damaged, you can keep it in place after putting in the spring bar with a bit of hot glue.
Video
Tips
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Use the right size of spring bars to attach the watch band of your choice. Failing to use the proper-sized spring bars can result in your watch band malfunctioning or not having a secure fit.Thanks
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By using the proper tools and equipment, you prevent scratching the watch's surface when placing a new watch band on your watch.Thanks
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If you are attaching a new band to a watch that has end caps, make sure your new straps fit the old end caps.Thanks
Things You'll Need
- Watch with the band on it
- Replacement watch band
- Soft cloth or towel
- 2 new spring bars
- Standard spring bar tool with forked end
- Watchmaker’s flathead screwdriver
Expert Interview
Thanks for reading our article! If you’d like to learn more about watch repair, check out our in-depth interview with Bill Green.
References
- ↑ https://youtu.be/9N_yCi0ezSQ?t=16
- ↑ https://youtu.be/fHzwNMbEYao?t=207
- ↑ https://youtu.be/fHzwNMbEYao?t=239
- ↑ https://youtu.be/LmhSzISB-2c?t=32
- ↑ https://youtu.be/fHzwNMbEYao?t=359
- ↑ https://youtu.be/fHzwNMbEYao?t=405
- ↑ https://youtu.be/fHzwNMbEYao?t=435
- ↑ https://youtu.be/LmhSzISB-2c?t=88
- ↑ https://youtu.be/Ba_LD4y2ofU?t=82
- ↑ https://youtu.be/Ba_LD4y2ofU?t=60
- ↑ https://youtu.be/Ba_LD4y2ofU?t=120
- ↑ https://youtu.be/Ba_LD4y2ofU?t=161
- ↑ https://youtu.be/Ba_LD4y2ofU?t=210
- ↑ https://youtu.be/VkZAwinu05c?t=17
- ↑ https://grail-watch.com/2018/04/19/the-real-james-bond-watch-strap-resurrected/
- ↑ https://youtu.be/VkZAwinu05c?t=24
- ↑ https://youtu.be/VkZAwinu05c?t=36
- ↑ https://youtu.be/VkZAwinu05c?t=39
- ↑ https://youtu.be/VkZAwinu05c?t=47
- ↑ https://youtu.be/SRdX8REu-H0?t=14
- ↑ https://youtu.be/SRdX8REu-H0?t=99
About This Article
To change a leather watch band, put the watch face down and locate the spring bar where the band attaches to the watch. Use a spring bar tool or the end of a small flat-head screwdriver to push in one end of the bar and release the band. Remove the bar from the band. Repeat this process with the other side of the band. Thread the spring bar through both ends of your new band. Use the screwdriver or spring bar tool to push in one end of the bar as you fit the new band into place on one side of the watch. Release the bar so it expands to fit into the notches on the side of the watch. Then, repeat the process on the other side. Keep reading to learn how to replace a metal watch band!
Reader Success Stories
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"Changing a leather watch strap, you can use a stitch ripper to press the lugs down. Works easily!"