How to Do a Reverse French Braid

Learn how to do an inverted French braid with this helpful guide

Co-authored by Sarah Kosakowski

Last Updated: December 6, 2024

A reverse French braid is a beautiful modification of the classic French braid. It gives a bolder look to your braid, having it pop out and sit on top of your head, rather than weave inward and lay flat with the rest of your hair. A reverse French braid simply requires you to braid you hair as you normally would with a French braid, but instead you cross the hair under the middle portion of hair, rather than over.

Reverse French Braiding 101

Gather 3 even sections of hair.
Cross the far-most right section of hair under the middle section of hair.
Then, cross the far-most left section of hair under the middle section of hair.
Continue this weaving pattern while simultaneously incorporating more hair into the section you’re weaving.

Steps

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1
Gather your beginning section of hair. Use your thumbs to trace along your scalp, through your hair, and separate the beginning section of hair you are going to use to start your braid.^{[1]
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Research source} If you want your braid to start at your hairline, use your thumbs to create a smaller, triangle shaped section near the front, top of your head. This section should be about two to four inches wide. If you want your braid to start more toward the middle back of your head, position your thumbs at the side of your head (near your temples), and trace along to the middle-back of your head, to gather your first section. This section will be significantly larger, about 10 inches wide.
- If you have bangs and you want to incorporate them into your braid, start your braid at your hairline.
- For short hair, it may be easier to incorporate all of your hair starting at your front hairline.
- For longer hair, you can start your braid near your hairline, or further down toward the back of your head.
2
Split up the beginning section of hair. Once you have your first section of hair, use your fingers to split it up into three equal parts.^{[2]
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Expert Source

Sarah Kosakowski
Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Interview. 3 September 2021.}
- This section needs to be split three ways evenly, so the braiding portions are all similar in width. If not, your braid could look uneven and lopsided.
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3
Create the first stitchings of the braid. A stitching of hair is anytime a piece of hair crosses another piece. Begin the braid by crossing the right portion of hair under the middle portion of hair. Now, it’s essentially as if these two pieces have flip-flopped; the original right portion of hair is now the new middle piece. Then, cross the left portion of hair under the new middle portion.^{[3]
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Research source}
- It is very important that the side portions of hair cross under the middle.^{[4]
  X
  Expert Source
  
  Sarah Kosakowski
  Professional Hair Stylist
  
  Expert Interview. 3 September 2021.} This is what gives the reverse French braid its signature pop out look.^{[5]
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  Research source}
- These first stitchings of hair are made like a normal braid. There is no new hair incorporated just yet. This gives a small, solid start to the braid where you can then start adding hair into the stitchings.
4
Incorporate hair into the braid. Now that you have the beginnings stitches, you can start adding hair into the braid. From the right side of your head, add in a new section of hair to the right-side portion of hair.^{[6]
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Research source} This new portion of hair should be about ½ of an inch thick. Once this new piece of hair is incorporated into the right portion, cross the entire right portion under the middle portion of hair. Do the same procedure with the left portion of hair. Gather a ½-inch piece of new hair from the side of your head, add it to the left portion of hair, and cross it under the middle portion of hair.
- Keep braiding in this manner until you have added all outside hair to the braid, and have reached the nape of your neck.
5
Finish the braid. Now with all of your hair incorporated either into the braid or into the three braiding portions of hair, continuing braiding the three portions of hair.^{[7]
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Research source} Once some hair starts fraying from the braid, use an elastic hair tie to secure and finish the braid.^{[8]
X
Expert Source

Sarah Kosakowski
Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Interview. 3 September 2021.}
- You can use a clear elastic tie of you have blonde hair, or a black hair tie if you have dark hair.
- You can also bring the three portions of hair over one of your shoulders to make the finishing braiding easier.

Expert Q&A

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Question

How many strands of hair do you need for a reverse French braid?

Sarah Kosakowski
Professional Hair Stylist
Sarah Kosakowski is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Owner of Alba Salon and Spa based in Cincinnati, Ohio. With a decade of experience, she specializes in bridal and formal hair, blondes, fine hair, and men’s cuts. Sarah received her training at The Aveda Frederic’s Institute and is proud to be a Kevin Murphy Session stylist amongst other accomplishments.

Sarah Kosakowski

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

You need to divide your hair into 3 separate parts to do a reverse French braid.

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Question

Can you do this braid on shoulder length hair?

Community Answer

Yes, but the braids won't be as long.

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Question

My braid just looks like a Dutch braid. Any tips?

Community Answer

They're the same. Reverse French braid is just the more commonly used name.

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Tips

If you don't get it on the first try, it's okay! Just try again!

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This works pretty well on any length hair, but it may not work on layers or short hair.

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You can secure any loose ends with a bobby pin.

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