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A complete walkthrough on how troubleshoot the flapper, fill valve, and float
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A running toilet can waste hundreds of gallons of water per day while running up your water bill—it can also just be super annoying to listen to the water trickle constantly. The best way to fix a running toilet is to start by diagnosing the problem. If the water flows constantly and spills into the overflow tube (the hollow piece in the middle), your fill valve is to blame. If the water isn’t overflowing, it’s probably your flapper. Finally, the water level itself could be to blame. In this article, we’ll show you how fix all of these problems and more.

Things You Should Know

  • Check the flapper if the water in the tank isn’t overflowing. Ensure that the chain is properly hooked and the flapper isn’t worn out.
  • If the tank is overflowing into the overfill valve, the fill valve needs to be adjusted or replaced.
  • The water level itself may require adjusting. This is easy with the adjustment screw on the fill valve (same with or without float).
Method 1
Method 1 of 3:

Flapper

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  1. Turn off the water and drain the toilet. Before you can check the flapper for problems, turn off the water to the toilet by twisting the supply line valve counterclockwise as far as it will go. Then, flush the toilet to drain excess water from the tank.[2]
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  2. The chain that pulls the flapper up can allow leaks if it’s too long or too short—the goal is to have a chain that looks like a J when the flapper is closed, but pulls taut and opens the flapper when you raise the handle fully. For too much tension, remove the hook on the handle and move the chain up 1-2 links. If the chain is too long too long, trim a few links with wire cutters and reattach it.[3]
    • When the chain is too short, it will pull up on the valve when it shouldn’t, allowing water to drain constantly. When the chain is too long, it can get caught underneath the flapper and prevent a seal.
  3. Remove the flapper by unhooking the sides from the pins at the bottom of the overflow tube. Inspect the flapper for mineral deposits, warping, discoloration, disintegration, and other signs of trouble.[4]
    • You can clean a dirty flapper that’s got mineral buildup on it.
    • A flapper that shows other wear-related problems should be replaced.
  4. Hold the flapper under a stream of running water and scrub the mineral deposits or junk off with a sponge or toothbrush. Add soap as needed to wear away any gunk. You can even soak the flapper in vinegar if you still can’t clean the flapper off.[5]
  5. If the flapper is brittle and hard or doesn’t seal well after cleaning it, purchase a new one. Take the worn flapper to the hardware store and purchase a new flapper in the same style and with the same dimensions. You can also buy a universal flapper that will fit any kind of toilet.[6]
    • To attach the new flapper, fit in into place and attach the hooks on the side to the pins on the overflow tube.
    • Turn the water back on and test the flapper to see that it’s functioning properly, and that the toilet isn't running.
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Method 2
Method 2 of 3:

Fill Valve

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  1. Your fill valve may simply need to be adjusted. If you pull up on the spline and the water stops flowing, the valve is just out of whack. Grab a screwdriver and turn the screw on top of the spline counterclockwise to lower the fill valve’s sensitivity.[7]
    • Your fill valve is the tall pipe structure on the left side of your tank. The spline is the vertical piece that sticks out towards the handle and moves up and down when you raise it.
    • This process is identical regardless of whether you have a ball float-style valve or one of the newer floatless valves.
  2. On the outside of the toilet, there is a water supply line running into the tank (directly underneath the fill valve). Use a wrench or channel locks to gently unscrew the locknut securing the line in place. Once it’s loose, turn the screw counterclockwise by hand and remove it.[9]
    • If that nut happens to be plastic, don’t use a wrench or channel locks. Just twist it off by hand.
  3. Once the supply line has been disconnected, you'll see a safety lock nut attaching the fill valve assembly to the toilet on the outside of the tank. Remove this by using an adjustable wrench (or your hand) to turn the lock nut to the left (counterclockwise). Once the lock nut is off, lift the old fill valve assembly out from the toilet tank.[10]
    • Take the old assembly to the hardware store when you purchase the replacement. That way, you can be sure to get the right size and style fill valve for your toilet.
    • You can replace older ball float fill valves with more modern float cup style ones if you’d like. The float fill valves and the non-float fill valves are functionally identical—the non-floats are just easier to adjust.
  4. Insert the new fill valve into the same place in the tank. Fit the valve into the hole in the tank where the water supply line comes in. Hook up the water supply line and tighten the nut in a clockwise direction to tighten it.[11]
    • Don’t overtighten the nut so hard that you end up cracking or damaging the bottom of the valve. So long as the supply line is tight and leak-free, you’re good to go.
  5. The fill tube is the rubber pipe hanging off of the fill valve. Attach the fill tube to overflow valve. Position the fill tube so it’s draining inside the overflow tube, and not into the tank itself.[12]
  6. Check the manufacturer’s directions to determine the correct float height for the fill valve you purchased. Use a measuring tape to measure from the bottom of the tank, and adjust the fill valve to the right height by turning the adjustment screw on the spline.[13]
    • Test the fill valve when you’re done. Turn the water back on and check the water level. Make sure the fill tube isn't in the water, and listen that there isn't any water running. Adjust the float height if necessary.[14]
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Method 3
Method 3 of 3:

Float

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  1. On top of the fill valve, there will be a screw attaching the float arm to the fill valve. When you turn this screw, you can adjust the height of the float. With a screwdriver, turn the screw a quarter turn counterclockwise to lower the float.[15]
    • Flush the toilet and let the water in the tank refill. Check the water level.
    • Ideally, the water level should be 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) below the top of the overflow tube. Continue adjusting the screw by quarter turns until the water level is right.[16]
  2. The water won’t stop running if the ball float isn’t positioned correctly. Look for an adjustment screw on the top of the fill valve. When you turn this screw, it will adjust the height of the float. Turn the screw a quarter turn counterclockwise to lower the float.[17]
    • Flush and refill the toilet tank.
    • Check the water level.
    • Continue to make adjustments until the water level in the tank is 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the top of the overflow tube.
    • Frankly, you can even just bend the metal float arm if you can’t get the ball to sit low enough.[18]
  3. The fill tube is a small rubber pipe attached to the fill valve that fills the tank with water after it’s been flushed. This tube should always be above the water line and inside of the overflow valve. When the tank is full and running, make sure the hasn’t popped off and is floating in the water.[19]
    • Some people have had success zip-tying the fill tube in place to keep it from popping off.
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Community Q&A

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  • Question
    My toilet runs on its own intermittently. I replaced the flapper and the whole tank ball mechanism, but when I flush the toilet, the tank water doesn't fill up to the tank fill line. What should I do?
    Community Answer
    Community Answer
    The next step would be to adjust the float to bring up the water level to the fill line.
  • Question
    Why is there a whistling noise when the toilet is flushed?
    Adrian
    Adrian
    Top Answerer
    Whistling, foghorn, or mechanical noises, etc., are signs of a broken valve. You will need to replace it.
  • Question
    How do I fix a fill valve that is leaking?
    Community Answer
    Community Answer
    The most common leaks are from the bottom of the tank or the bottom of the bowl. For a leak from the bottom of the tank, you may need to replace the tank-to-bowl gasket which can dry-rot with age. Set the tank square on the bowl, and alternate tightening the left and right screws by pushing down on each side that you are tightening. Be careful not to overtighten the bolts, or you may crack the porcelain tank. For a leak from bottom of bowl, replace the wax doughnut with a new one or use a newer composite material. You can find the necessary supplies at a local hardware store.
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About This Article

James Schuelke
Co-authored by:
Professional Plumber
This article was co-authored by James Schuelke and by wikiHow staff writer, Eric McClure. James Schuelke, along with his twin brother David, is the co-owner of the Twin Home Experts, a licensed plumbing, leak detection, and mold inspection company based in Los Angeles, California. James has over 32 years of home service and business plumbing experience and has expanded the Twin Home Experts to Phoenix, Arizona and the Pacific Northwest. This article has been viewed 6,468,637 times.
41 votes - 62%
Co-authors: 67
Updated: November 27, 2024
Views: 6,468,637
Article SummaryX

One way to fix a running toilet is by adjusting the flapper, which is a rubber seal that stops the water in the tank from draining into the toilet bowl. Start by turning off the water and flushing the toilet to drain the tank. Then, open the tank lid to inspect the handle, chain, and flapper. Make sure the chain is long enough to let the flapper close completely, or move the connection down 1-2 links. If the flapper is cracked, or deteriorating, remove it by unhooking the pins near the overflow tube. Clean the flapper, or purchase a new one to replace it and fix the toilet. To learn how to adjust the water level or fix the fill valve inside your toilet, keep reading the article!

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