How to Hem

Co-authored by Mia Danilowicz

Last Updated: June 6, 2024

Hems are primarily used to hide the raw edges of your material, but you may also hem a garment to shorten it. The width of the hem will make a difference in your hem’s appearance. You can also alter the appearance with the type of thread and stitch you choose to secure the hem.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Determining How Wide the Hem Should Be

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1
Check your pattern for any special instructions. If you are following a sewing pattern, then it should include detailed instructions about how to hem your finished item. The instructions should also include guidelines for how wide the hem will need to be and how to achieve this result. If you are not using a pattern, then you might look into common hem widths for the type of project you are working on.^{[1]
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- For example, curtains usually have a 2 in (5.1 cm) wide hem, while sleeves may only have a hem that is 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) wide, and napkins may have hems that are small as 0.25 in (0.64 cm) wide.^{[2]
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2
Find out how much fabric you will need before you cut and sew. If you are using a pattern, then the amount of fabric you need to create the hem should already be included. If you are making a project without a pattern, then add the hem allowance before you cut the fabric.
- For example, if you are making napkins and you want them to have a 0.25 in (0.64 cm) double-folded hem on all 4 sides, then add 1 in (2.5 cm) to the fabric dimensions. This would mean that to make a 16 by 16 in (41 by 41 cm) napkin, you would need to cut a piece of fabric that is 17 by 17 in (43 by 43 cm).
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3
Try on garments before creating the hem. If you want a perfect fit on garments you are sewing for yourself or for a friend, try the garment on and check the positioning of the hem before you sew it. Even if you are following a pattern, you may find that you want the hem a little higher or lower than the pattern indicates. Mark the fabric or place pins to indicate where you think the hem should begin and end.
- This may require adjusting the width of the hem if you have limited fabric. For example, if a pattern calls for 3 in (7.6 cm) wide hem on the bottom of a skirt, but you would like the hem to be lower, then you might need to reduce the width of the hem by 1 in (2.5 cm) and have a 2 in (5.1 cm) hem instead.
4
Sew the hem last unless you are pleating a garment. Hemming should always be your last step when you are sewing something. The only exception to this would be if you are making a pleated skirt. In this case, you will need to hem the bottom of the skirt before you add the pleats.^{[3]
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- For example, if you are making a pleated skirt, sew the hem before you work on the waistband of the skirt. Then, make the pleats and secure them with the skirt's waistband.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Folding the Hem

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1
Make a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) fold along the raw edge of the fabric. Fold the fabric over towards the wrong (back) side, so that the raw edge of the fabric will be hidden on the back of the item when you are finished. The wrong (back) sides of the fabric should be together after this fold.^{[4]
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- You can make the first fold larger if you plan to do a wide hem, such as a 2 in (5.1 cm) hem. Make sure that the first fold is equal to or smaller than the desired hem width.
- If you plan to do a narrow hem, such as a 0.25 in (0.64 cm) wide hem, then your first fold should also be 0.25 in (0.64 cm).^{[5]
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2
Fold the desired amount of fabric for the hem. You can make your hem as narrow or as wide as you like. This fold will hide the raw edge of the fabric.^{[6]
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- For example, you could make your hem 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide for sleeves, or 3 in (7.6 cm) wide for pantlegs.
- Try folding the fabric over and checking to see what hem width looks best.
3
Pin the hem in place. Insert pins perpendicular to the folded edge of the fabric. Space out the pins so that there is 1 every 2 to 3 in (5.1 to 7.6 cm) apart. Make sure that each pin goes all the way through the layers of fabric to secure the fold.^{[7]
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- Use ballpoint pins for delicate fabrics and knits. These pins will go in between the fibers rather than through them.
- You can pin the folds into place using straight pins or pins that have rounded ends to prevent them from going all the way through the fabric.
4
Iron along the fold to crease the fabric if desired. If you want the edges of your hem to be crisp and flat, iron over the folded edges. Use the lowest setting on your iron to press the folded edges. You may also want to place a T-shirt or towel over the fabric to prevent it from getting damaged by the heat.^{[8]
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- Be careful not to iron over pins in the fabric. You may want to remove the pins in sections to avoid accidentally ironing over them.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Sewing the Hem

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1
Select a thread type and color that will work for your project. You can use thread that matches your fabric if you want it to blend in, or go with thread that will contrast with the color of the fabric if you want it to stand out.
- For example, if you are sewing a hem on white fabric, then opt for white thread if you want the thread to blend in.
- If you are sewing a hem on pink fabric and want the thread to stand out, then you could opt for yellow, green, white, or black thread.
2
Opt for a straight stitch for a simple hem. A straight stitch is a great choice for simple, functional hems. This is a great option for hemming sleeves, pants, skirts, napkins, and curtains. Sew the stitch so that it is about 0.25 in (0.64 cm) from the inner folded edge of the fabric.^{[9]
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- You may position the stitch closer or further from the fold if desired. This will depend on the size of your hem. For example, if you are making a 2 in (5.1 cm) hem, then you might position the stitch 0.5 in (1.3 cm) from the fold. Or, for a 0.25 in (0.64 cm) hem, you might sew 0.12 in (0.30 cm) from the fold
- Remove the pins as you sew. Do not sew over them or you may damage your sewing machine.
3
Choose the zigzag stitch to hem stretchy fabric. If you are sewing a fabric that has some stretch to it, such as jersey, lycra, and other knit fabrics, try using the zigzag stitch. The zigzag stitch allows the fabric to stretch as needed and it is a standard stitch on sewing machines.^{[10]
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- The wider and longer the stitches are, the more visible they will be. Choose the setting that works best for your project.
- Try testing the zigzag stitch on a scrap of fabric to see how it looks and feels.
4
Sew the hem by hand if you don’t want to use a sewing machine. Thread a needle with 18 inches (46 cm) of thread and pull it through the eye of the needle until half of the thread is on each side of the eye. Then, tie a knot to secure the ends of the thread. Insert the needle into the fabric going through all of the folded layers. Bring the needle all the way through the fabric and pull until the thread is taut.
- Make sure to keep the widths of the stitches even. You can space the stitches about 0.25 in (0.64 cm) or less apart.^{[11]
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- Continue to weave in and out of the fabric layers in a straight line along the inner folded edge. Keep going until your hem is secured. Then, tie a knot to secure the last stitch and cut the excess thread.

What’s The First Step For Hemming a Pair Of Pants?

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What's the best stitch to use when you're sewing by hand?

Mia Danilowicz
Master Tailor
Mia Danilowicz is a Master Tailor who works onset and on the red carpet in Los Angeles, California. With over a decade of experience, Mia specializes in bridal and gown couturier fittings, garment reconstruction, and custom design. Mia has worked at the Oscars, Grammys, SAG Awards, and Golden Globes. Her clients include a long list of entertainment and fashion industry headliners, major fashion magazines, luxury consumer brands, and popular media. Mia was trained at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising and received her AA in Fashion Design and BS in Business Management.

Mia Danilowicz

Master Tailor

Expert Answer

The best hand stitch for doing a hem is called a blindstitch. This stitch takes practice and patience, so it's great to learn and practice it before actually trying it on a pair of pants. The stitch is almost invisible from the outside, and gives the pants a clean tailored appearance.

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Tips

If desired, you can cut along the raw edges of the fabric with pinking shears before you fold the hem. This will help to prevent fraying.

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