Q&A for How to Paint a Bike

Without primer, your paint will chip and peel off. The primer bonds the top coat of the bare metal for long-lasting results. I highly recommend using a primer.

Rustoleum is a good brand, but you can also find other quality paints at your local hardware store.

No, the new paint won't stick. Sand down the old paint and spray again.

Yes, but you need to take off all reflectors, sand it down and then follow the same procedure.

You can buy specialist metal paint at most art stores. Hand painting can leave drip marks or an uneven finish though, so I recommend stenciling.

If you're on a budget, plain alcohol can work. If not, consider getting a proper wax and grease remover from an auto store. They can give you exact recommendations.

Give them a light sanding first and feather around the edges. A good etch primer will help the paint adhere to the frame and follow that up with an enamel paint.

If you use a glossy clear coat then yes, but there are matte clear coat sprays available as well that will not destroy it.

Usually 10 to 15 minutes depending on the brand, but it is best to leave it overnight before fully handling.

You can paint over fluorescent or neon colored paint, but it sometimes "bleeds through" a top coat. You'll have better results if you sand it with 220-320 grit, then apply a "sanding sealer" as per instructions. This product prevents bleeding and sands easily without the "loading" tendency which causes sandpaper to clog quickly. For best results you would want to paint over a white primer base.

You will need quite a few. Definitely at least a crank puller, some Alex wrenches, and screwdrivers.

That depends on how many colors you use, how many overlapping shapes you want to have, and whether you waste a lot of paint getting the technique right. To do a single color, you're looking at applying at least 2-3 coats, which would be one to two cans depending on the thickness of your frame bars/tubes.

Yes. However, you'll struggle with keeping overspray to a minimum as the parts will need to move. You should at least try to remove the wheels, crank sets, and gears. (All of these can be removed with basic tools.)

Yes, but it will be significantly more difficult and portions of the bike may not be properly painted. You will also have to ensure that any portions of the bike that aren't meant to be painted have been properly covered and secured.

No, they should be applied after the clear coat. The clear coat should be applied directly on the paint.

For the best results, you should clean off any dust or grease from your bike before you paint it.

No, I'd recommend to sand it down till you can at least see traces of the raw frame.

It depends on quality and design choice. If basic is all you need, then lightly sand and prime with a clear coat. If you're going for an intricate design, you may need to use additional cleaners, sand papers, and base coats and primer to help the topcoat colors shine brighter.

You should use a matte clear coat. It protects the colored paint underneath.

Multiple colors can be range from extremely simple to insanely complex, depending on the pattern, number of colors, and your level of skill. Starting with a white primer will lead to significantly brighter results. Following that logic, start with the brightest parts first (white, yellow, or any other bright/light colors), then add the progressively darker shades where needed. Some people use masking/painters tape to tape up the bits they don't want sprayed, spray the bright bits, then once that paint is very dry, taping the painted parts up and spraying the rest. Keep it simple to start with, then think about using decals to spray patterns or words.

Yes, but only if you are positive paint thinner doesn't weaken or dissolve the resin used in your fork. There are several types of resin used in building carbon bike forks.

It depends on various factors such as the size of the bike, the quality of the paint, the opacity of the desired finish, etc. One to two cans should be enough.

The paint won’t stick to the bike if the original coat is still on. Rustoleum is a good brand for painting bikes.

Primer will set the metal to help the paint stick better in wet conditions. You don't have to use it, but the paint job might not be as permanent if you don't.

Use paint thinner and a wire brush. It should take the unwanted paint right out.

Look at your local hardware store for spray paint that says "matte finish" on the can. Avoid spray paints that say "glossy" or "shiny" on them.

Take a water soaked rag and tie it around the sticker and let it soak for an hour; the paper will become weak and rub off easily. Use methylated spirits to remove any left over adhesive.

Yes, just make sure you roughen up the surface of the old paint with fine grit sandpaper so the new paint has something to stick to.

You can use either, but make sure it is one that is designed to paint metal. Otherwise, the paint and primer may not stick as you would like it to.

You will need to wet sand until the finish is smooth and even. This gradually removes the paint until the stroke marks are worn away.