How to Set Hair

Co-authored by Karen Leight

Last Updated: April 19, 2024

Before tools such as straighteners, curling irons and hot rollers became available, women had to learn to set their hair without heat. They curled their wet hair with various sizes of rollers, letting their hair dry into the desired style. And while many modern hairstyles have abandoned setting, rollers are still a great way to create curled locks that last. It's also safer to style your hair without heat. Following a few simple steps will result in classically curled hair.

Things You Should Know

Separate clean, damp hair into 3 sections. Then, split the top section into smaller sections.
Wrap the smaller sections around rollers. Work your way down until all of your hair is rolled.
Let your hair air-dry or use a dryer to speed up the setting process.

Part 1

Part 1 of 3:

Preparing Hair to be Set

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1
Choose your curlers. The size of your rollers will determine the size of your resulting curls. Larger rollers will create larger curls and waves, while smaller rollers will create tight pin, spiral or bouncing curls.
- Don't forget to consider the length and weight of your hair when choosing your rollers. Long and thick hair will naturally result in looser curls than short, fine hair.
- The ideal type of rollers will also vary based on how you plan to set the curls. For example, Velcro rollers will be easier to set using a hair dryer, but if you plan to sleep in the rollers, you'll be more comfortable with sponge or bendy rollers.
2
Wash your hair. Shampoo your hair thoroughly and rinse. Use a sulfate-free shampoo to prevent dryness and keep your curls from frizzing up. Use conditioner if that's part of your general hair-care routine. Rinse completely and gently towel dry.
- If you want to use leave-in conditioner, now is the time to apply it.
- Comb through wet hair so there are no tangles.
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Apply a styling product so your hair will better hold the curls once they are set. Remember, where there is more product, there is generally more hold. Choose from mousse, gel, hairspray or even thermal-activating setting spray. You can customize your curls by spraying just the ends of your hair for curls at the bottom, or spray the roots and underneath for voluminous waves.
4
Section your hair. Part the hair into 3 sections, 1 on top and 1 on each side of your head, leaving the back hair loose. Placing curlers in 1 of these sections at a time will make the process much easier.
- Pin sections down with long hair clips.
There are no set times when to dampen your hair, just spritz it when you feel it is too dry to work with.

Audrey Davis-Sivasothy, Chemist and Cosmetologist

While heat tools may provide a temporary fix, they can damage the hair over time. For best results, I recommend setting the hair on velcro or mesh rollers after washing and conditioning. Allow the hair to air dry fully before gently unrolling the curls.

Part 2

Part 2 of 3:

Wrapping Your Hair with Rollers

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1
Begin rolling the topmost section of hair. Split each of the 3 sections into smaller sections about the width of your roller and no more than 2 inches thick. You will ultimately roll the sections in the direction you want the hair to fall.^{[1]
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Research source} Secure the hair between 2 fingers. Now, smooth the ends of the hair around the roller, holding them down until the roll is started. Continue rolling until you get to the scalp.
- Repeat with the next roller section, duplicating what you did with the first.
- You may find it easier to roll your hair uniformly around the roller if you wrap the ends in end papers. This can be especially helpful for short hair.
- If you wish, you can use larger rollers for the top sections, then gradually move down in size as you get toward the bottom of the head. This will create looser waves on top, and tighter curls toward the bottom. For a more uniform look, use rollers of the same size all over.
- Trying to roll a section of hair that's too large may prevent curls from forming.
2
Choose the direction of the curls. Keep in mind what direction you want the curls to fall, toward or away from your face. Place the roller on whichever side you’ve chosen, and wrap from there. For most hairstyles, rollers on the top of the head will be rolled backward, away from the face.^{[2]
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- If you want curls that don't fall uniformly, roll the hair in various directions. If you roll some sections of hair forward and some sections of hair backward, your curls that look more natural.^{[3]
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Roll the hair on the sides of your head. Start on either side of the top and put the hair in rollers. For most hairstyles, the side rollers will be rolled in a downward direction.^{[4]
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- Move from the top of this side section to the bottom of it (at the ear area).
- If you are using multiple sizes of rollers, begin to use gradually smaller rollers at the bottom of this section of hair, ending with the smallest you use.
- If you want an outward flip at the bottom of your hairstyle, roll the bottom curlers in an upward direction.^{[5]
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- Go to the other side section and repeat.
4
Divide the back area into 3 sections, if it is not already done. Roll from the top of each section of hair to the bottom.
- If you are using multiple roller sizes, make sure you use smaller rollers as you near the neckline for all of these sections.

Part 3

Part 3 of 3:

Setting and Styling Curled Hair

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1
Allow rolled hair to completely dry. Sit under a hair dryer for 30 minutes before checking to see if your hair is completely dry. Remove 1 roller first to be sure it is dry. If not, add 10 to 15 minutes with the hair dryer before removing the rollers.
- The longer and thicker your hair is, the longer it will take to dry completely.
- If sleeping on your rollers, don't remove them until morning. Be sure and test 1 roller before removing the rest.
Unwind 1 roller at a time when your hair is completely dry. Work slowly to avoid tangling your hair. You'll find it easiest to remove the bottom rollers first and work your way up to the top sections of hair.
3
Style curled hair. Once the rollers are out, brush out the curls to loosen them. Be careful not to overdo it, since your curls should keep their shape for 2 or 3 strokes, but any more might cause them to fall out.
- You can also use a pick or simply run your fingers through the curls to separate them and add some volume.
Once you've reached the desired curls and volume, you can complete your hairstyle. For long, loose curls, you're already finished. But you can also tie back your curled hair or secure it in place with hair pins or barrettes, just as you would if it were straight.
Once everything looks just as you desire, complete setting your style by spritzing it with hair spray. Choose a spray with your desired effect, whether it's light and natural or stiff and set in place.

Expert Q&A

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Question

How do I reduce my hair volume?

Karen Leight
Professional Hair Stylist
Karen Leight is a Professional Hair Stylist and the Owner of Karen Renee Hair, a private salon suite inside the Salon Republic Hollywood in Los Angeles, California. With over 12 years of experience, Karen is a licensed cosmetologist specializing in hair color, balayage technique, and women’s and men’s precision haircuts.

Karen Leight

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

Try using a heavier styling product to help weigh your curls down and make them less voluminous.

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Question

How long should hair be to get bouncy curls?

Ashley Adams
Professional Hair Stylist
Ashley Adams is a Licensed Cosmetologist and Hair Stylist in Illinois. She completed her Cosmetology education at John Amico School of Hair Design in 2016.

Ashley Adams

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

Your hair would need to be several inches long, at least shoulder length for the curls to bounce. If your hair is any shorter, it won’t work.

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How can I stop frizz?

Community Answer

You can invest in a really good anti-frizz serum. Loreal Professionals work well on frizzy hair and helps you tame it.

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